Return-Path: Received: from imo-r06.mx.aol.com ([152.163.225.102] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.1.8) with ESMTP id 2940888 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 20 Jan 2004 16:15:12 -0500 Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-r06.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v36_r4.12.) id q.129.39a28f0c (30970) for ; Tue, 20 Jan 2004 16:15:05 -0500 (EST) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: <129.39a28f0c.2d3ef458@aol.com> Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 16:15:04 EST Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Intake question To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 138 In a message dated 1/20/2004 10:39:57 AM Central Standard Time, 13brv3@bellsouth.net writes: << As for welding up the current space, I don't see how it would be possible. The channels are so narrow, that my tig torch barely fits inside. How about some other metal? Is there something along the lines of a brazing alloy that would melt at a substantially lower temp than aluminum, so I could just heat the entire manifold with a torch, and pool the molten alloy inside the runner? Thanks for any comments. I've got to get moving on this intake in the next couple days, since I'm burning vacation time to make this happen. Cheers, Rusty (off to the hanger for some inspiration) >> Make a band saw cut into the runner you want to change. Remove the portion that you want to change. Keep the curf above the area you will want to weld on to give yourself some margin. Weld up the removed lower portion. Die grind to aceave the shape it needs to be. Keep trying the lower half of the runner against the engine until it is the shape you want. Weld the modified portion of the runner back onto the manifold. Use a needle scaler to make the smoothed out weld area look stock as cast. You can do that to a stock class manifold and get it through tech, I am told. I would never do that myself. Lynn E. Hanover