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Bill is right Steve..............Especially if you are burning 100 low lead fuel................Some of the guys are having
good service from the RX8 Renesis "Iridium" sparkplugs...............Jump in here you guys that are flying............
Tell us your spark plug stories about what plugs are working for you and what fuel you are using...........I know
the plug discussion comes up often but we all need our memories refreshed (especially me)................<:)
Kelly Troyer
"DYKE DELTA JD2" (Eventually)
"13B ROTARY"_ Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"MISTRAL"_Backplate/Oil Manifold
"TURBONETICS"_TO4E50 Turbo
From: Bill Schertz <wschertz@comcast.net>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Sat, February 5, 2011 2:49:51 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Mistral parts?
Steve, another cause of one rotor being hotter egt is the beginning of sparkplug failure. (SAG) Try a new set of plugs especially if you did the ground running and 20 hours flight with one set.
Bill Schertz
KIS Cruiser #4045
N343BS
Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 1:08 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Mistral parts?
Howdy everyone! I'm sitting here lurking most of the time, but admit that I don't read all the posts. Here is an update on the situation at Mistral. The company has closed its doors for now and is in the hands of a bankruptcy court. However, there is still a lot of interest in the company and they are continuing to seek out either additional investors or a sale of the company with a view to resume. The court has given them an extension to work out any possible plans.
All of the employees that were there before it closed are gone, most having sought out other opportunities. So, there is really no one to contact at this point. Will there be a revival of Mistral? All of us who own their engines sure hope so. I hope to convince any new owners/investors to get parts into the field, both whole engines and individual parts. One aspect of my engine that I really appreciate is the hydraulic prop. Works great.
If anything that is for public consumption occurs, I will try to let everyone know.
On another subject, I now have over 22 hours on my airplane. I have been fighting an oil temperature problem from the outset. I've realized that I have an air intake that is too big and an air exit that is too small. Right now, I can manage the oil temps to the point that I can safely fly, but will need to make some major cowl mods somewhere down the road. I want to get my 40 hours flown off so I can return to my home airport and work more efficiently. The large intake scoop is also having a detrimental effect on my top speed, both from drag and the need to keep throttled back to watch the oil. I can see that my cowl is building up a lot of pressure, so I've got to get that resolved before I will really know what this ship can do.
Also, I have found a muffler that works great, but it is still hanging out in the breeze under the airplane. The muffler has cut the noise considerably. I got it from Burns Stainless. it is one of their 2-stage mufflers. But, I am also fighting high EGTs on my #1 rotor, which I attribute to poor cooling of the header. So, I need to do some work there as well. I'd love to get the whole business under the cowl, so one of those tangential muffler solutions with a cool air blast tube is probably in my future. The tangential probably reduces the available power a little, but the undercarriage muffler adds drag.
But, for now, I'm concentrating real hard on getting my hours flown off.
Best Regards,
Steve Thomas
"When the government fears the people there is liberty; when the people fear the government there is tyranny." --Thomas Jefferson
_______________________________________________________
On Feb 5, 2011, at 10:30 AM, Kelly Troyer wrote:
Marc,
I do not know "Mistral's" current status............I have their backplate and oil manifold............You
might contact Steve Thomas (Glasair retract) with a complete "Mistral" 13B engine........I do not
know how close he monitors this forum...............
Kelly Troyer
"DYKE DELTA JD2" (Eventually)
"13B ROTARY"_ Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"MISTRAL"_Backplate/Oil Manifold
"TURBONETICS"_TO4E50 Turbo
From: Marc Wiese <cardmarc@charter.net>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Sat, February 5, 2011 12:16:23 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Mistral parts?
Will Mistral still sell subassemblies or has their bankruptcy/withdrawal from the market stopped all that completely? Did they sell to someone?
Marc
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Lehanover@aol.com
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2011 12:54 AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Case bolts and torque readings
In a message dated 2/3/2011 6:00:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, Lehanover@aol.com writes:
Forgive me if I am a little dense but after your explanation and all the mention of torque
readings based on "Dry Threads" then your statement to use "Antiseize" which method
produces the most accurate and repeatable torque readings ??............In my hunt for bolts
of the correct thread length for the "Dynaocal" mounts to bolt to my "Mistral" backplate to
my engine mount I obtained a lot of info regarding bolt torque from the "ARP" (well known
fastener company)........Their torque procedure recommendation includes the use of their
own brand of thread lubricant...............
Kelly Troyer
"DYKE DELTA JD2" (Eventually)
Well, any method of installation that is consistent bolt to bolt and hole to hole can then produce repeatable torque readings within some acceptable range. All dry holes in one range, or all motor oiled holes or many builders like STP because it clings to stuff so well. So, there is a big range in tension developed between say 25 pounds of torque on a bolt with clean dry threads in a clean dry hole (Vapor degreased) and another bolt lubricated with nearly any kind of oil or, oil like product.
Then all of the oil like products will produce a very much narrower band of tension outcomes. I like Nickel anti-seize, but nearly anything works. So if the bolt is torqued up and you find some below torque, back each out in sequence one full turn to allow some lube to migrate onto the threads and torque up in one continuous motion. If you have to stop the motion before the wrench clicks, then back up one full turn and try again.
If it was not a single motion from the last torque step to the wrench click, then the bolt has not been torqued and shame on you.
Torque is called out to control some other factor. In this case how much pressure is on the stack, and that controls beam stiffness and some torsional stiffness.
In very highly stressed bolts in tension, the bolt is torqued into a tensile stress above the maximum load expected. SPS (Standard Pressed Steel) makes all kinds of bolts. The great tension bolts have a dimple on both ends. You stick a special dial indicator jig on these bolts and you torque the bolt until it has stretched a specific amount, like .007" for rod bolts. It is best to have a spare set of SPS bolts that you use just during resizing you rods. The clown who runs that machine generally torques rod bolts to 35 pounds for everything.
You want you rods resized with bolts close to 50 pounds and stretched to .007" That is if you actually want round big ends. (Higher HP and lower oil temps).
The torque callouts for most bolts have nothing to do with the bolts at all. It is to prevent your ham fisted brother in-law from jacking the threads out of an aluminum casting. So bolts in aluminum for most applications can be made of crap. Since not into their working range, there is no way to keep them from backing out without some positive locking system. Not Locktite as it will glue the bolt in tight and require much heat to kill it before removal, lest the threads come out with the bolt.
Or, Locktite just under the bolt head and washer. Or drill the bolt head for safety wire.
The aircraft bolts with thin heads and very short thread runs, are shear bolts. Always used in double shear to avoid a bending load, and very lightly torqued as they are poor in tension. They have a hole through the threads for a safety pin or split cotter to keep the half height castle nut from falling off.
Went to Kermit Weeks Fantasy of Flight museum today. Went on all of the tours. Well worth a side trip up I-4 while at Sun&Fun.
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