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Steve, another cause of one rotor being hotter egt is the beginning of
sparkplug failure. (SAG) Try a new set of plugs especially if you did the ground
running and 20 hours flight with one set.
Bill
Schertz
KIS Cruiser #4045
N343BS
Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 1:08 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Mistral parts?
Howdy
everyone! I'm sitting here lurking most of the time, but admit that I
don't read all the posts. Here is an update on the situation at
Mistral. The company has closed its doors for now and is in the hands of a
bankruptcy court. However, there is still a lot of interest in the company
and they are continuing to seek out either additional investors or a sale of the
company with a view to resume. The court has given them an extension to
work out any possible plans.
All of the employees that were there before it closed are gone, most having
sought out other opportunities. So, there is really no one to contact at
this point. Will there be a revival of Mistral? All of us who own
their engines sure hope so. I hope to convince any new owners/investors to
get parts into the field, both whole engines and individual parts. One
aspect of my engine that I really appreciate is the hydraulic prop. Works
great.
If anything that is for public consumption occurs, I will try to let
everyone know.
On another subject, I now have over 22 hours on my airplane. I have
been fighting an oil temperature problem from the outset. I've realized
that I have an air intake that is too big and an air exit that is too
small. Right now, I can manage the oil temps to the point that I can
safely fly, but will need to make some major cowl mods somewhere down the
road. I want to get my 40 hours flown off so I can return to my home
airport and work more efficiently. The large intake scoop is also having a
detrimental effect on my top speed, both from drag and the need to keep
throttled back to watch the oil. I can see that my cowl is building up a
lot of pressure, so I've got to get that resolved before I will really know what
this ship can do.
Also, I have found a muffler that works great, but it is still hanging out
in the breeze under the airplane. The muffler has cut the noise
considerably. I got it from Burns Stainless. it is one of their
2-stage mufflers. But, I am also fighting high EGTs on my #1 rotor, which
I attribute to poor cooling of the header. So, I need to do some work
there as well. I'd love to get the whole business under the cowl, so one
of those tangential muffler solutions with a cool air blast tube is probably in
my future. The tangential probably reduces the available power a little,
but the undercarriage muffler adds drag.
But, for now, I'm concentrating real hard on getting my hours flown
off.
Best Regards,
Steve Thomas
"When the
government fears the people there is liberty; when the people fear the
government there is tyranny." --Thomas
Jefferson
_______________________________________________________
On Feb 5, 2011, at 10:30 AM, Kelly Troyer wrote:
Marc,
I do not know "Mistral's" current
status............I have their backplate and oil manifold............You
might contact Steve Thomas (Glasair retract)
with a complete "Mistral" 13B engine........I do not
know how close he monitors this
forum...............
Kelly Troyer
"DYKE DELTA JD2" (Eventually)
"13B ROTARY"_ Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"MISTRAL"_Backplate/Oil
Manifold
"TURBONETICS"_TO4E50 Turbo
From: Marc Wiese <cardmarc@charter.net>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Sat, February 5, 2011 12:16:23
PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Mistral
parts?
Will Mistral still sell
subassemblies or has their bankruptcy/withdrawal from the market stopped all
that completely? Did they sell to someone?
Marc
From: Rotary motors in aircraft
[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Lehanover@aol.com
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2011 12:54
AM
To: Rotary motors
in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Case bolts and torque
readings
In a message
dated 2/3/2011 6:00:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, Lehanover@aol.com writes:
Forgive me if I am a little dense but after your explanation and all the
mention of torque
readings
based on "Dry Threads" then your statement to use "Antiseize" which
method
produces
the most accurate and repeatable torque readings ??............In my hunt
for bolts
of the
correct thread length for the "Dynaocal" mounts to bolt to my "Mistral"
backplate to
my engine
mount I obtained a lot of info regarding bolt torque from the "ARP" (well
known
fastener
company)........Their torque procedure recommendation includes the use of
their
own brand
of thread lubricant...............
Kelly
Troyer
"DYKE
DELTA JD2" (Eventually)
Well, any
method of installation that is consistent bolt to bolt and hole to hole can
then produce repeatable torque readings within some acceptable range. All
dry holes in one range, or all motor oiled holes or many builders like STP
because it clings to stuff so well. So, there is a big range in tension
developed between say 25 pounds of torque on a bolt with clean dry threads
in a clean dry hole (Vapor degreased) and another bolt lubricated with
nearly any kind of oil or, oil like product.
Then all of
the oil like products will produce a very much narrower band of tension
outcomes. I like Nickel anti-seize, but nearly anything works. So if the
bolt is torqued up and you find some below torque, back each out in sequence
one full turn to allow some lube to migrate onto the threads and torque up
in one continuous motion. If you have to stop the motion before the wrench
clicks, then back up one full turn and try again.
If it was not
a single motion from the last torque step to the wrench click, then the bolt
has not been torqued and shame on you.
Torque is
called out to control some other factor. In this case how much pressure is
on the stack, and that controls beam stiffness and some torsional
stiffness.
In very
highly stressed bolts in tension, the bolt is torqued into a tensile stress
above the maximum load expected. SPS (Standard Pressed Steel) makes all
kinds of bolts. The great tension bolts have a dimple on both ends. You
stick a special dial indicator jig on these bolts and you torque the bolt
until it has stretched a specific amount, like .007" for rod bolts. It is
best to have a spare set of SPS bolts that you use just during resizing you
rods. The clown who runs that machine generally torques rod bolts to 35
pounds for everything.
You want you
rods resized with bolts close to 50 pounds and stretched to .007" That is if
you actually want round big ends. (Higher HP and lower oil
temps).
The torque
callouts for most bolts have nothing to do with the bolts at all. It is to
prevent your ham fisted brother in-law from jacking the threads out of an
aluminum casting. So bolts in aluminum for most applications can be made of
crap. Since not into their working range, there is no way to keep them from
backing out without some positive locking system. Not Locktite as it will
glue the bolt in tight and require much heat to kill it before removal, lest
the threads come out with the bolt.
Or, Locktite
just under the bolt head and washer. Or drill the bolt head for safety
wire.
The aircraft
bolts with thin heads and very short thread runs, are shear bolts. Always used
in double shear to avoid a bending load, and very lightly torqued as they are
poor in tension. They have a hole through the threads for a safety pin or
split cotter to keep the half height castle nut from falling off.
Went to Kermit
Weeks Fantasy of Flight museum today. Went on all of the tours. Well
worth a side trip up I-4 while at Sun&Fun.
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