X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imr-da06.mx.aol.com ([205.188.169.203] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.4c2a) with ESMTP id 4836655 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Thu, 03 Feb 2011 09:54:55 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.169.203; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from imo-da02.mx.aol.com (imo-da02.mx.aol.com [205.188.169.200]) by imr-da06.mx.aol.com (8.14.1/8.14.1) with ESMTP id p13EsAco029153 for ; Thu, 3 Feb 2011 09:54:10 -0500 Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-da02.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v42.9.) id q.e91.a2914e0 (37036) for ; Thu, 3 Feb 2011 09:54:08 -0500 (EST) Received: from magic-d20.mail.aol.com (magic-d20.mail.aol.com [172.19.155.136]) by cia-db02.mx.aol.com (v129.8) with ESMTP id MAILCIADB026-90ac4d4ac18fb0; Thu, 03 Feb 2011 09:54:07 -0500 From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: <2ac0b.1d5001e2.3a7c1b8f@aol.com> Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2011 09:54:07 EST Subject: Case bolts and torque readings To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_2ac0b.1d5001e2.3a7c1b8f_boundary" X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 5382 X-AOL-IP: 72.187.199.116 X-Spam-Flag:NO X-AOL-SENDER: Lehanover@aol.com --part1_2ac0b.1d5001e2.3a7c1b8f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Check with Lynn I think you are to use the larger bolts ONLY, maybe can replace one at a time & not dissturb anything, I do know that the larger bolts were used on the eng. that Bruce built. David R. Cook RV6A The torque idea is based on how much drag is generated between the rolled threads on the bolt and the cut threads in the hole. So, clean and dry for both sets of threads give the highest torque reading per unit of bolt tension. One of those "Round-A-bout" methods of recovering data. If the threads are all uniform and the gizmo that torques them up was calibrated this morning, and the clutch on the one that does number 9 has not run out of lubrication again and is torqueing number into the stratosphere. In any case we count on a completely dry hole and bolt to predict an important outcome. Case bolts are not torqued into their elastic range. This may have been the case with the reduced diameter early bolts, but the full diameter bolts would probably deform some pieces. The thick bolts produce a more uniform torque because they are stiffer in torsion. A truly dry hole with the early bolts produce a stall and then a breakaway with a squeak. Then the torque is lost and the bolt must be turned further and so-on. So, I just put anti seize on the threads and both sides of the washers. This is what Racing Beat says to do. This added tension makes the stack stiffer in bending and torsion. It helps rotor housing deformation during detonation. This is where the loaded surface of the housing turns black from scrubbing on the irons. In high output engines the spark plug side gets every hole oversized and dowels added. All of the case bolts outside the doweled area are over sized for added torsional stiffness. So, replacing a thin bolt with a thick bolt would produce a slightly higher tension, but not enough to matter, so long as the bolt was dry and the hole is dry. If the rear of the engine is available, I would retorque the whole stack. Mark the bolt heads and the iron with a dot from a Sharpie and be amazed by how many bolts pull down further. One at a time in the proper order: turn the bolt backwards one full revolution with a breaker bar not the torque wrench. Then with a calibrated clicker style torque tighten the bolt in one continuous motion until the wrench clicks the first time. Do the whole sequence a second time. Not the loosen part, just check the torque again. Several may move a bit more. Torqueing a new build is different than an assembled and run engine. Download the free Racing Beat manual and catalogue. Then read it.......... Lynn E. Hanover --part1_2ac0b.1d5001e2.3a7c1b8f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Check=20 with Lynn I think you are to use the larger bolts ONLY, maybe can replac= e one=20 at a time & not dissturb anything, I do know that the larger bolts= were=20 used on the eng. that Bruce built.   David R. Cook  RV6A&= nbsp;=20
The torque idea is based on how much drag is generated between the ro= lled=20 threads on the bolt and the cut
threads in the hole. So, clean and dry for both sets of threads give= the=20 highest torque reading per unit of bolt tension. One of those "Round-A-bou= t"=20 methods of recovering data.
 
If the threads are all uniform and the gizmo that torques them up was= =20 calibrated this morning, and the clutch on the one that does number 9 has= not=20 run out of lubrication again and is torqueing number into the stratosphere= .=20
 
In any case we count on a completely dry hole and bolt = ;to=20 predict an important outcome.
 
Case bolts are not torqued into their elastic range. This may have be= en the=20 case with the reduced diameter
early bolts, but the full diameter bolts would probably deform s= ome=20 pieces. The thick bolts produce a more uniform torque because they are sti= ffer=20 in torsion. A truly dry hole with the early bolts produce a stall and then= a=20 breakaway with a squeak. Then the torque is lost and the bolt must be= =20 turned further and so-on.
 
So, I just put anti seize on the threads and both sides of the washer= s.=20 This is what Racing Beat says to do.
 
This added tension makes the stack stiffer in bending and torsion. It= helps=20 rotor housing deformation during detonation. This is where the loaded surf= ace of=20 the housing turns black from scrubbing on the irons.
 
In high output engines the spark plug side gets every hole oversized= and=20 dowels added. All of the case bolts outside the doweled area are over size= d for=20 added torsional stiffness.
 
So, replacing a thin bolt with a thick bolt would produce a=20 slightly higher tension, but not enough to matter, so long as the bol= t was=20 dry and the hole is dry.
 
If the rear of the engine is available, I would retorque the whole st= ack.=20 Mark the bolt heads and the iron with a dot from a Sharpie and be amazed= by how=20 many bolts pull down further.
 
One at a time in the proper order: turn the bolt backwards one full= =20 revolution with a breaker bar not the torque wrench. Then with a calibrate= d=20 clicker style torque tighten the bolt in one continuous motion until the= wrench=20 clicks the first time.  
 
Do the whole sequence a second time. Not the loosen part, just check= the=20 torque again. Several may move a bit more.
 
Torqueing a new build is different than an assembled and run engine.=
 
Download the free Racing Beat manual and catalogue. Then read=20 it..........
 
Lynn E. Hanover
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