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Mark,
I assume you will install the diode
between the solenoid input and the starter case for ground???
Bill B
From: Rotary motors in aircraft
[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
Behalf Of Mark Steitle
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011
2:36 PM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Most
stupid question here ever...rotor position
That's exactly the contactor that I have, which does have a spike
supressor diode installed. The "solenoid" that I was referring
to earlier is the one that is part of the starter motor. And no, mine
does not have a spike supression diode, but it will very soon.
On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 1:16 PM, Bill Bradburry <bbradburry@bellsouth.net> wrote:
Mark,
Yes, I got my contactor from B&C here..
http://www.bandc.biz/intermittentdutystartercontactor.aspx
it has a built in spike suppressor diode in it. However, I am
also using the solenoid that came on the starter, and I don’t think that there
is a spike suppressor diode on it. I will have to look as I can’t
remember. Is your set up much different from this?
Bill
From: Rotary motors in aircraft
[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]
On Behalf Of Mark Steitle
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011
2:06 PM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Most
stupid question here ever...rotor position
I take it to mean
the solenoid, not the motor. Here is Tracy's post...
Basically,
anything that has an inductive load (relay, solenoid, etc) and is switched on
and off should have a diode clamp unless the something about the design
requires none.
BTW, aside from
the diode clamps, all those relays and contactors introduce more possibilities
for routing problems in electrical systems. Yes, I know the theoretical
reasons for having contactors and relays in aircraft but I didn't use any at
all.
Electronic
engineer's mantra:
Every wire is a
resistor.
Every wire is an inductor.
Any two wires are a capacitor.
Any two wires are a transformer.
None of these components show up on a schematic.
All of these components affect circuit performance.
Nobody gets engineer jokes at a cocktail party.
On Wed, Jan 26,
2011 at 12:07 PM, Bill Bradburry <bbradburry@bellsouth.net> wrote:
Mark,
Are you talking about the primary of the starter solenoid?
Mine has diodes across the primary. Isn’t that supposed to catch the
spikes??
Bill B
From: Rotary motors in aircraft
[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]
On Behalf Of Mark Steitle
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011
11:05 AM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Most stupid
question here ever...rotor position
Yes, overthinking
problems is easy to do. I typically lean toward underthinking
problems.
I was going to
stop by on Saturday, but I experienced a corrupted MAP table incident just
prior to departure. It didn't dawn on me initially what had
hapened. But as soon as I looked at the map table I knew
that it had been corrupted. I reloaded the factory table and
it fixed the immediate problem. Now I just need to figure out why it
happened. Tracy
suggested it may be a spike eminating from the starter solenoid.
On Wed, Jan 26,
2011 at 9:47 AM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net>
wrote:
Mark,
Thanks. That is what I was thinking but
then I started over thinking it.
Now I can focus on the other tasks at
hand. Again, I believe it to be timing related. When I turned
the CAS, retarded I think (clockwise), it seemed to crank a bit better on
B. So, like I said, I may be a tooth off. At least it is a starting
point.
Isn't this fun.......:-\
Chris
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [flyrotary@lancaironline.net]
on behalf of Mark Steitle [msteitle@gmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011
9:06 AM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Most
stupid question here ever...rotor position
The rear rotor will only fit one way as dictated by the eccentric
shaft, stationary gear and rotor housing. So, don't disassemble the
motor again... unless you just need something to do with your spare time.
On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 8:50 AM, Chris
Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote:
This may be the most stupid question posed on this site.
Ok, first the update on my loss of compression in my rear rotor
housing. I tore open the engine and everything looked really good,
except, as expected, the springs for the apex seals had been flattened.
Upon reflection, I also remember removing the rear spark plug a while back and
recall I replaced it due to the plug removed looked damaged. At the time,
since the engine seemed to be running ok (event though difficult to start), I
didn’t think too much of it. However, now I realize that it was a clear
indication of detonation.
Seems like a no brainer now, but sometimes I gotta be hit
across the skull with the obvious. Flame suite on but in the tradition of
John Slade, I do wish to post my failures to help others learn and to hopefully
finally get it.
Anyway, I got everything buttoned up and got it to start last
night. I reset all the EC2 parameters to the factory defaults. It
did not run well. I could not even get it to start on the A computer, and
it started after a lot of extended cranking on the B computer. It did not
run great on B. My suspicion is that the timing is off. The B
computer was tuned a long time ago and has not been updated. I plan to do
a static timing check this evening if I can get out to the hangar. I have
gotten that process down pretty good now. I think I may be off a tooth on
the crank angle sensor. I think a combination of a lean mixture and bad
timing may be the predominant factors in my detonation problem. I had a
friend point out the obvious in that the pinging I may have thought I would
hear would not be too likely with the noise of the prop. DOH!
I did do the EC2 check and the injectors are clicking
dutifully and I saw strong spark on all plugs.
Ok, here is the stupid question and a major bonehead moment.
I remember that you must “ clock “ the rear rotor to the front rotor when
installing them. However, when I installed the rear rotor the other day I
placed it where I though it needed to go base on when I removed it, however, I
can’t remember now if I actually got it back in the right position in relation
to the front rotor. I was thinking it is only gonna fit one way
based on the position of the e-shaft to the chamber walls. Is this so, or
could I have it out of position? I am having visions of me getting it to
start with the rear rotor out of position, thus only running on the front rotor
while banging the hell out of the rear rotor. Would it even start
if this were so?
If I gotta tear it down to check, I will and as mentioned,
cracking open is not all that big a deal anymore. Other than this obvious
brain fart, I am understanding the process much better….rote practice does
this.
Thanks guys/gals.
Chris Barberfly
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