Okay, thanks Finn; getting the shavings extracted with grease, or a magnet should work.

So, based on your comments about the tension bolts and sealing washers having nothing to do with oil, I have to assume that my rear oil seal is the source of the leak.

With the re-drive, ring gear, etc already off the engine I’ll go ahead and replace the rear seal.

Thanks …   Jeff

 

Ok here are some more ideas that have worked for me.

 

In the field: if no coolant or oil is exiting the broken bolt hole, glue the bolt head into the hole with a big supply of silicone sealant and finish the weekend. Work on it at home or, if it really bugs you, drop in the spare engine. Don't tell the driver why you changed engines, only that this one is a bit stronger. He will go faster even if this is the slug engine from last year.

 

The stationary gear bolts should be holding down a disc that covers about 1/3 of each bolt head, so when a bolt breaks the loose head cannot wander out and get tangled up in anything. Its cheap. It works perfectly.

Check for wandering bolt heads during preflight.

 

Slip a magnet on a rod or cable down the hole. Gently turn it left handed to remove the broken piece.

 

 

Or, if the broken bolt has a less than smooth surface at the failure point, remove a few threads from the end of the broken bolt so it can be used as sort of a screw driver. Remove the washer and insert the bolt remains.

 

Gently turn the bolt counter clockwise, or "Lefty-Loosy" feeling for that clock position where the pieces mate up again. Then apply a few pounds of pressure to the bolt head while turning it counter clockwise. I have never failed with this method. However the failure plain may be nearly flat. So this method is of no value.

 

With a spare (junk) case bolt grind the end to look like a straight slot screw driver blade. Remove the threads from the last 3/16". Grind out the center of the blade so only the edges of the blade can touch the broken end of the bolt. Sharpen the bits of blade in opposite directions. Sort of a two pronged pitch fork. Install this bolt with a few pounds of pressure and turn "lefty-Loosy".

 

Or, soak the end of a wood dowel in water, that just fits down the hole and extends out of the hole about 5". Make the dowel as to clock location. Mark the iron as well. Hold the dowel firmly against the end of the broken bolt. Strike the exposed end of the dowel firmly with a heavy slow moving hammer. The wet end of the dowel will conform to the failure zone on the bolt. Hold down firmly and turn the dowel.

 

Or, with a soft iron rod like the center of a 6013 AC welding rod with the flux removed down a plastic hose or tube (any insulator) the iron rod sharpened at the end. Welder on about 40 amps. Firmly press the rod into the hole and shut off the welder instantly. Twist out the bolt with the rod. You can practice on scrap pieces for this.

 

Or, apply a drop of epoxy to the end of a wood dowel and press the dowel onto the bolt.

 

Or strip down the engine and remover the bolt scrap.

 

Failures are from the bolts ringing  like strings on a Harp. Bolts that fail were probably under torqued just a bit. Otherwise many bolts would fail not just one. The failure planes tend to be featureless so grip is not available. These are fatigue failures, not tension failures. Thus the smooth granular look in the failure path.

 

Drilling a hole for an "Easy Out" also tends to tighten the bolt scrap into the hole. If the threads are damaged a bit then the damaged threads enter the hole and removal will be difficult.

 

The broken ends usually remain in good condition and tend to be loose in the hole. If the broken end is not rusted then that is good news.

 

Try the easy stuff first.

 

Lynn E. Hanover