Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #53493
From: Kelly Troyer <keltro@att.net>
Subject: Re: Broken tension Bolt
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2011 08:05:57 -0800 (PST)
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Jeff,
 
Might be a good idea to drain coolent to below the broken bolt and perhaps put some
degreaser (laquer thinner, etc) under light pressure  to clean the stub then dry with a
little heat from heat gun to give the JB Weld a fighting chance for a good bond...........
 
Where is the fracture located (flush with hsg or further away)...........If flush with front
hsg be extremely careful not to get so much JB Weld in the intended joint as to have
excess bond the stub to the hsg as Bill stated.......... 
  

Kelly Troyer
"DYKE DELTA JD2" (Eventually)

"13B ROTARY"_ Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"MISTRAL"_Backplate/Oil Manifold

"TURBONETICS"_TO4E50 Turbo




From: Bill Bradburry <bbradburry@bellsouth.net>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Wed, January 5, 2011 9:45:34 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Broken tension Bolt

If the pressure and gentle extraction doesn’t work, you could try a SMALL amount of JB Weld on the end of the bolt head end and let it set 24 hours.  You don’t want to use enough JB Weld that the squeeze out would drip inside.  It has a shear strength of 1000 pounds.  It might hold well enough to remove that bolt.  It still would not interfere with the drill and ezout method if you needed to resort to it.

 

Bill B

 


From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Whaley
Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2011 10:30 AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Broken tension Bolt

 

Hi Kelly, yeah I read Tracy’s squawk …  I’m hoping the pressure and gentle extraction method will work for me as well, but if not I’ll have to resort to the drill and easy-out method … anything but tear down the engine.  I sure hope replacing the rear seal will solve my oil leak …  

Jeff

 

From:

Kelly Troyer <keltro@att.net>

Subject:

Re: Broken tension Bolt

Date:

Wed, 5 Jan 2011 06:40:20 -0800 (PST)

To:

Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>

 

Jeff,

   Tracy Was lucky enough that after removing the sealing washer from his broken bolt that

there was enough friction at the fracture  to allow the broken stub to be turned out by holding

pressure on the bolt head and gently turning the stub out............You might try that............

 

Kelly Troyer
"DYKE DELTA JD2" (Eventually)

"13B ROTARY"_ Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"MISTRAL"_Backplate/Oil Manifold

"TURBONETICS"_TO4E50 Turbo

From: Jeff Whaley
Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2011 8:19 AM
To: ' Rotary motors in aircraft '
Subject: RE: Broken tension Bolt

 

Okay, thanks Finn; getting the shavings extracted with grease, or a magnet should work.

So, based on your comments about the tension bolts and sealing washers having nothing to do with oil, I have to assume that my rear oil seal is the source of the leak.

With the re-drive, ring gear, etc already off the engine I’ll go ahead and replace the rear seal.

Thanks …   Jeff

 

From: Finn Lassen [mailto:finn.lassen@verizon.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2011 8:43 PM
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] FW: RE: Broken tension Bolt

 

No oil contact with the bolts.

The reason for the rubber washers is that there are no o-rings or sealant between the coolant galleries and the bolt holes, so yes, there could be some seep of coolant into the bolt holes. But I doubt there will be any flow that can carry shavings from the bolt hole to the coolant. The grease trick should be more than adequate.

Finn



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