Hi Kelly, yeah I read Tracy’s squawk … I’m hoping the pressure and gentle extraction method will work for me as well, but if not I’ll have to resort to the drill and easy-out method … anything but tear down
the engine. I sure hope replacing the rear seal will solve my oil leak …
Jeff
From:
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Kelly Troyer <keltro@att.net>
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Subject:
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Re: Broken tension Bolt
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Date:
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Wed, 5 Jan 2011 06:40:20 -0800 (PST)
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To:
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Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
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Jeff,
Tracy Was lucky enough that after removing the sealing washer from his broken bolt that
there was enough friction at the fracture to allow the broken stub to be turned out by holding
pressure on the bolt head and gently turning the stub out............You might try that............
Kelly Troyer
"DYKE DELTA JD2"
(Eventually)
"13B ROTARY"_ Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"MISTRAL"_Backplate/Oil Manifold
"TURBONETICS"_TO4E50 Turbo
From: Jeff Whaley
Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2011 8:19 AM
To: 'Rotary motors in aircraft'
Subject: RE: Broken tension Bolt
Okay, thanks Finn; getting the shavings extracted with grease, or a magnet should work.
So, based on your comments about the tension bolts and sealing washers having nothing to do with oil, I have to assume that my rear oil seal is the source of the leak.
With the re-drive, ring gear, etc already off the engine I’ll go ahead and replace the rear seal.
Thanks … Jeff
From: Finn Lassen [mailto:finn.lassen@verizon.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2011 8:43 PM
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] FW: RE: Broken tension Bolt
No oil contact with the bolts.
The reason for the rubber washers is that there are no o-rings or sealant between the coolant galleries and the bolt holes, so yes, there could be some seep of coolant into the bolt holes. But I doubt there will be any flow that can carry shavings from the
bolt hole to the coolant. The grease trick should be more than adequate.
Finn