X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from vms173003pub.verizon.net ([206.46.173.3] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.3.11) with ESMTP id 4663542 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 04 Jan 2011 11:18:58 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=206.46.173.3; envelope-from=finn.lassen@verizon.net Received: from [75.204.177.231] ([unknown] [75.204.177.231]) by vms173003.mailsrvcs.net (Sun Java(tm) System Messaging Server 7u2-7.02 32bit (built Apr 16 2009)) with ESMTPA id <0LEI0096MAMH95K0@vms173003.mailsrvcs.net> for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 04 Jan 2011 10:18:18 -0600 (CST) Message-id: <4D234844.9000305@verizon.net> Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2011 11:18:12 -0500 From: Finn Lassen User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Windows NT 5.1; en-US; rv:1.9.2.13) Gecko/20101207 Thunderbird/3.1.7 MIME-version: 1.0 To: Rotary motors in aircraft Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Broken Tension Bolt References: In-reply-to: Content-type: multipart/alternative; boundary=------------040102020709050101080609 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------040102020709050101080609 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Jeff, I've done that too. Wrapped the long drill bit in something to keep it centered. (Probably used layers of heat shrink.) Brazed an easy-out to a piece of 1/4" (?) steel tube. As far as I know, none of the tension bolt holes are exposed to oil flow. Not sure that that particular bolt passes through any cavities directly exposed to coolant either. In any case, I don't see that any small steel shavings would adversely affect the cooling system. Antifreeze should prevent any electrolytic reaction between steel and aluminum if a bit of steel shaving should become lodged in a radiator, right? Or you could disconnect the radiators and flush the cooling channels in the engine block. But first look at where that particular bolt passes through. Might not be a problem at all. Finn On 1/4/2011 9:03 AM, Jeff Whaley wrote: > > Yesterday, while checking over my engine for the source of a nagging > oil leak I found a broken tension bolt, I guess it's good in respect > to finding the problem but WTF? > > During installation I applied a spiral of silicone around each bolt > trying to prevent this from happening. The broken bolt is positioned > in the upper left hand corner (if viewed from prop end) and according > to my Haynes Manual it is either #8 or #12 in the torque-sequence. > > Checking Tracy's website I read about his SQUAWK with same issue many > years ago ... he was able to get the bolt's threaded portion out > without having to tear-down the engine or resort to the drill and > easy-out method. > > What happens to those metal shavings inside there if I have to drill > and use an easy-out? > > Can I extract them all with a magnet or compressed air? > > Am I looking at an engine tear-down ... or replace the bolt (or > bolts), re-torque the stack and carry on? > > Jeff > > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 5758 (20110104) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > http://www.eset.com > > This message, and the documents attached hereto, is intended only for > the addressee and may contain privileged or confidential information. > Any unauthorized disclosure is strictly prohibited. If you have > received this message in error, please notify us immediately so that > we may correct our internal records. Please then delete the original > message. Thank you. --------------040102020709050101080609 Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Jeff,

I've done that too.
Wrapped the long drill bit in something to keep it centered. (Probably used layers of heat shrink.)
Brazed an easy-out to a piece of 1/4" (?) steel tube.

As far as I know, none of the tension bolt holes are exposed to oil flow. Not sure that that particular bolt passes through any cavities directly exposed to coolant either. In any case, I don't see that any small steel shavings would adversely affect the cooling system. Antifreeze should prevent any electrolytic reaction between steel and aluminum if a bit of steel shaving should become lodged in a radiator, right? Or you could disconnect the radiators and flush the cooling channels in the engine block. But first look at where that particular bolt passes through. Might not be a problem at all.

Finn

On 1/4/2011 9:03 AM, Jeff Whaley wrote:

Yesterday, while checking over my engine for the source of a nagging oil leak I found a broken tension bolt, I guess it’s good in respect to finding the problem but WTF?

During installation I applied a spiral of silicone around each bolt trying to prevent this from happening. The broken bolt is positioned in the upper left hand corner (if viewed from prop end) and according to my Haynes Manual it is either #8 or #12 in the torque-sequence.

Checking Tracy’s website I read about his SQUAWK with same issue many years ago … he was able to get the bolt’s threaded portion out without having to tear-down the engine or resort to the drill and easy-out method.

What happens to those metal shavings inside there if I have to drill and use an easy-out?

Can I extract them all with a magnet or compressed air?

Am I looking at an engine tear-down … or replace the bolt (or bolts), re-torque the stack and carry on?

Jeff

__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5758 (20110104) __________

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.eset.com

This message, and the documents attached hereto, is intended only for the addressee and may contain privileged or confidential information. Any unauthorized disclosure is strictly prohibited. If you have received this message in error, please notify us immediately so that we may correct our internal records. Please then delete the original message. Thank you.

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