flyrotary@lancaironline.net Mailing List Archive

I also have an overvoltage crowbar, it cuts power to the alternator contactor. I'm also using two 18 AH SLA batteries from powersonic. I've been using the same batteries in my motorcycles for years, so I know they will handle the vibration and conditions for a motor vehicle. They should be more than adequate to keep me flying until I can get down safely in the unliely event event of an alternator failure.

Right now I'm in the process of getting a few more inconel pieces, mostly bellows, for my exhaust system. There are plenty of suppliers of such. A little expensive, but this is really the last thing keeping the airplane out of the air, so it's easier to bite the bullet and buy this stuff. It's even easier knowing how much money I'll ultimately save by using mogas at $3 a gallon as opposed to avgas at $5 a gallon.

Brian Trubee

-----Original Message-----
From: Bobby J. Hughes <bhughes@qnsi.net>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Wed, Sep 22, 2010 7:15 am
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Alternator

I had an internally regulated Van's alternator fail with high voltage after washing the engine earlier this year. I replaced the regulator but it quickly failed again with low voltage. I purchased a refurbished replacement locally and have not had a chance to disassemble the failed unit. I do have a crowbar circuit but I noticed the failure and opened the circuit before it activated. My DPST alternator switch closes the ignition lead and alternator contactor coil.

Bobby

(traveling for work and still finishing fiberglass)

From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of shipchief@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 2:58 AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Alternator

Like Brian, I 'm running a 60 amp NIPON DENSO. I'm running a mini 1 wire alternator I got on ebay. It failed (low voltage) because the brush holder was too tight on the brushes and held one too tight until it lost contact with the slip ring. I quickly and easily got a better replacement from "the rebuilder" in Kent WA. ($6) He said "you gotta love that DENSO, everything is mounted on the back."

And that's true. the regulator, diode bridge and brush rigging are all on the back and can be removed for service without removing the alternator from the engine if you have enough room. That servicability more than makes up for the one deficiency I had.
I just bought a second one because the output connection post faces straight off the back, which suits me. My current one has the output post touching my oil cooler inlet duct, so the new version suits my application better.

Gotta love the DENSO!!

I might consider an output overvoltage 'crowbar' protection device, but I have not yet heard of one of these alternators failing to 'overvoltage'.

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: bktrub@aol.com
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Tue, Sep 21, 2010 4:32 pm
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Alternator

I'm using a 40 amp Nippondenso alternator, with a slightly larger diameter pulley that is a micro v-belt(serpentine style). I got it new from Romaine Electric in Seattle for $140 new. It has an internal voltage regulator. It puts out plenty of juice.

Brian Trubee

-----Original Message-----
From: josrph berki <jskmberki@windstream.net>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Tue, Sep 21, 2010 3:21 pm
Subject: [FlyRotary] Alternator

What alternator is being used on the rotary?  With EFI and electronic
ignition I would think a 60 amp would be suitable.  Does anyone have a light
weight small solution?  Thanks for any help.

Joe Berki
Limo EZ


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