flyrotary@lancaironline.net Mailing List Archive

Rhino,

I didn't know the Renesis had metal inserts - that's better than the rubber. However earlier corner seals had no inserts, they were solid, apart from the apex seal slot. I'm unsure if the older type used exclusively for high performance rebuilds locally - because their more robust.

What has been passed on to me was, as the plug type get older they become very brittle and break . I was given an older corner seal and was told to squeeze it between thumb and finger , it broke easily. The solid types do not break, to my knowledge. The insert type maybe springier and therefore seal better, I assume.

I do have a renesis rotor for my single development, but haven't tried the solid corner seals - if they fit I will be using them unless advised otherwise.

Thanks for the heads-up on the seals.

George ( down under)

Thanks everyone,

I have Bruce tape and the rx7 manual, but no info. on the Renesis. I was installing the apex corner seals with the button on the outside.   According to Bryan's diagram, the button goes on the inside, against the spring. I will try that with Lynn's advice.

I was also noticing some catching when I was turning the shaft after assembly, something was wrong. The catching was not enough to stop the shaft from turning but there was definitly something there.   I also noticed that the corner seal buttons were passing over the exhaust and intake openings, that is not good, I thought, something is wrong. Back to the heavy grease....

Thanks again

Rino

----- Original Message -----

From: Lynn Hanover

To: Rotary motors in aircraft

Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 2:02 AM

Subject: [FlyRotary] Too many pieces

lacombr@nbnet.nb.ca writes:
>
> Help,
>
> I cannot reassemble my Renesis.   I tried twice and everytime rotor corner
> seal plugs fall out through a port when I turn the shaft after I torque
> the tension bolts. On the Renesis the corner seal plugs are metal and not
> rubber. If I cannot find how to assemble this engine I will have to buy a
> long block.
>
> Rino Lacombe
>

Tip the front iron up to vertical. Assemble only the front side of the front rotor.

Slip the rotor over the front crank journal while the crank is horizontal.

Slip crank and rotor into the front stationary gear/bearing.

Tip the front iron back to horizontal.

Build up the back side of the rotor.

use an apex seal to align the corner seals.

Install the rotor housing.

Super glue the apex seal pieces together wearing rubber gloves on a piece of wax paper or Visqueen.

Install apex seals and springs as a unit.

Use screen door springs or similar to clamp rotor housing to front iron.

There you go. Nothing falls out. Nothing lost. No extra pieces on the floor.

You can use grease to hold the pieces together, and it works fine, unless it is warm. You can hold corner seals and side seals in with silk thread taped to the rear of the rotor. Or you can super glue the corner seals in place.

Or, you can hold pressure on the side seals pushing both away from the one corner seal close to your index fingers, while holding that corner seal in place with one index finger, and snap the rotor down when within 1/2" or so. Most folks do that. Still there is a chance for error. Or, you can do all of the above.

Pay attention to the handedness of the oil scraper springs. When new they have colored dots of paint to indicate a front or rear spring. Just the spring keeps the scraper from rotating in the rotor and wearing out the "O" ring. The spring has one rounded end and one square end. The rounded end engages a shallow hole in the rotor. The square end engages a notch on the under side of the scraper.

Once you get the idea stuck in your mind you will never forget it.

Lynn E. Hanover