X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from omta1.toronto.rmgopenwave.com ([4.59.182.99] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.3.0) with ESMTP id 4051710 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 29 Dec 2009 08:21:07 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=4.59.182.99; envelope-from=lacombr@nbnet.nb.ca Received: from torspm04.toronto.rmgopenwave.com ([142.167.95.165]) by tormtz01.toronto.rmgopenwave.com (InterMail vM.8.00.01.00 201-2244-105-20090324) with ESMTP id <20091229132029.JUMB29008.tormtz01.toronto.rmgopenwave.com@torspm04.toronto.rmgopenwave.com> for ; Tue, 29 Dec 2009 08:20:29 -0500 Received: from PCdeRita ([142.167.95.165]) by torspm04.toronto.rmgopenwave.com with SMTP id <20091229132028.EAQM27443.torspm04.toronto.rmgopenwave.com@PCdeRita> for ; Tue, 29 Dec 2009 08:20:28 -0500 Message-ID: <82649184E28944D69CF90C84E75D8B88@PCdeRita> From: "Rino" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" References: In-Reply-To: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Too many pieces Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 09:20:01 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0042_01CA8868.191519B0" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Windows Mail 6.0.6002.18005 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.0.6002.18005 X-Opwv-CommTouchExtSvcRefID: str=0001.0A020202.4B3A021D.0082,ss=1,fgs=0 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01CA8868.191519B0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Thanks everyone,=20 I have Bruce tape and the rx7 manual, but no info. on the Renesis. I = was installing the apex corner seals with the button on the outside. = According to Bryan's diagram, the button goes on the inside, against the = spring. I will try that with Lynn's advice. I was also noticing some catching when I was turning the shaft after = assembly, something was wrong. The catching was not enough to stop the = shaft from turning but there was definitly something there. I also = noticed that the corner seal buttons were passing over the exhaust and = intake openings, that is not good, I thought, something is wrong. Back = to the heavy grease.... Thanks again Rino ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Lynn Hanover=20 To: Rotary motors in aircraft=20 Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 2:02 AM Subject: [FlyRotary] Too many pieces lacombr@nbnet.nb.ca writes: >=20 > Help, > =20 > I cannot reassemble my Renesis. I tried twice and everytime = rotor corner=20 > seal plugs fall out through a port when I turn the shaft after I = torque=20 > the tension bolts. On the Renesis the corner seal plugs are = metal and not=20 > rubber. If I cannot find how to assemble this engine I will have = to buy a=20 > long block. > =20 > Rino Lacombe >=20 Tip the front iron up to vertical. Assemble only the front side of the = front rotor.=20 Slip the rotor over the front crank journal while the crank is = horizontal. Slip crank and rotor into the front stationary gear/bearing.=20 Tip the front iron back to horizontal.=20 Build up the back side of the rotor. use an apex seal to align the corner seals. Install the rotor housing. Super glue the apex seal pieces together wearing rubber gloves on a = piece of wax paper or Visqueen.=20 Install apex seals and springs as a unit.=20 Use screen door springs or similar to clamp rotor housing to front = iron.=20 There you go. Nothing falls out. Nothing lost. No extra pieces on the = floor.=20 You can use grease to hold the pieces together, and it works fine, = unless it is warm. You can hold corner seals and side seals in with silk = thread taped to the rear of the rotor. Or you can super glue the corner = seals in place. Or, you can hold pressure on the side seals pushing both away from the = one corner seal close to your index fingers, while holding that corner = seal in place with one index finger, and snap the rotor down when within = 1/2" or so. Most folks do that. Still there is a chance for error. Or, = you can do all of the above.=20 Pay attention to the handedness of the oil scraper springs. When new = they have colored dots of paint to indicate a front or rear spring. Just = the spring keeps the scraper from rotating in the rotor and wearing out = the "O" ring. The spring has one rounded end and one square end. The = rounded end engages a shallow hole in the rotor. The square end engages = a notch on the under side of the scraper.=20 Once you get the idea stuck in your mind you will never forget it. Lynn E. Hanover ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01CA8868.191519B0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Thanks everyone,
 
I have Bruce tape and the rx7 manual, = but no info.=20 on the Renesis.  I was installing the apex corner seals with the = button on=20 the outside.   According to Bryan's diagram, the button goes = on the=20 inside, against the spring.  I will try that with Lynn's=20 advice.
I was also noticing some catching when = I was=20 turning the shaft after assembly, something was wrong.  The = catching was=20 not enough to stop the shaft from turning but there was definitly = something=20 there.   I also noticed that the corner seal buttons were = passing over=20 the exhaust and intake openings, that is not good, I thought, something = is=20 wrong.  Back to the heavy grease....
 
Thanks again
Rino
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Lynn=20 Hanover
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, = 2009 2:02=20 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Too many=20 pieces

lacombr@nbnet.nb.ca = writes:
>=20
> Help,

> I cannot reassemble my=20 Renesis.   I  tried twice and everytime rotor corner =
>=20 seal plugs fall out through a  port when I turn the shaft after = I=20 torque
> the tension bolts.  On the  Renesis the = corner=20 seal plugs are metal and not
> rubber.  If I cannot = find =20 how to assemble this engine I will have to buy a
> long=20 block.

> Rino Lacombe
> =
Tip the front iron up to vertical. Assemble only the front side = of the=20 front rotor.
 
Slip the rotor over the front crank journal while the crank is=20 horizontal.
 
Slip crank and rotor into the front stationary gear/bearing. =
 
Tip the front iron back to horizontal.
 
Build up the back side of the rotor.
 
use an apex seal to align the corner seals.
 
Install the rotor housing.
 
Super glue the apex seal pieces together wearing rubber gloves on = a piece=20 of wax paper or Visqueen.
 
Install apex seals and springs as a unit.
 
Use screen door springs or similar to clamp rotor housing to = front iron.=20
 
There you go. Nothing falls out. Nothing lost. No extra pieces on = the=20 floor.
 
You can use grease to hold the pieces together, and it works = fine, unless=20 it is warm. You can hold corner seals and side seals in with silk = thread taped=20 to the rear of the rotor. Or you can super glue the corner seals in=20 place.
Or, you can hold pressure on the side seals pushing both away = from the=20 one corner seal close to your index fingers, while holding that corner = seal in=20 place with one index finger, and snap the rotor down when within 1/2" = or so.=20 Most folks do that. Still there is a chance for error. Or, you can do = all of=20 the above. 
 
Pay attention to the handedness of the oil scraper springs. When = new they=20 have colored dots of paint to indicate a front or rear spring. Just = the spring=20 keeps the scraper from rotating in the rotor and wearing out the "O" = ring. The=20 spring has one rounded end and one square end. The rounded end engages = a=20 shallow hole in the rotor. The square end engages a notch on the under = side of=20 the scraper.
 
Once you get the idea stuck in your mind you will never forget = it.
 
Lynn E. Hanover 
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