Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #49004
From: Bobby J. Hughes <bhughes@qnsi.net>
Subject: RE: [FlyRotary] Re: Battery Location[FlyRotary] Re: No start after engine replacement
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 11:16:40 -0600
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Steve,

Sure sounds like the same symptoms I observed with my CAS problems. I
know the Renesis CAS is different. Is your CAS a two wire circuit. If so
I would try reversing the CAS wires at the EC3. If the EC3 is lowering
the CAS voltage (speculation on my part) I would want the voltage
correction on the CAS output to the EC3. If on the input the voltage
might be to low during cranking. Just speculation.

Bobby

-----Original Message-----
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
Behalf Of Steve Brooks
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 10:52 AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Battery Location[FlyRotary] Re: No start after
engine replacement

I've been testing it all morning, and while I have tested it in a number
of ways, I still have no clue why I'm not getting consistent spark.
I pulled a plug from each rotor, and clamped it to a ground, so that
first of all, the engine would spin faster with a plug out of each
rotor, and second, I could see two spark plugs instead of just one.

I probably did 15-20 cranks of 5 seconds each.  I "usually" get an
inital spark off of the front rotor and nothing else, but there were
times that it didn't spark at all, and once that it sparked once after 2
or 3 seconds of cranking.

On the rear rotor, I do not get the initial spark, but it does spark
maybe 5 or 6 times during 5 seconds of cranking, but very hit and miss.

I might see two close together, followed by nothing for a second or two.

I checked the coil wiring from the EC-2 plug to the GM wiring harness
connector, and all was perfect.  I also pulled two connector off of the
LS1 coils and checked for continuity.  Still no issue.  since I had one
apart, I decided to hook up the logic probe to the trigger pin.  With
the master on, I see a low signal, and when I start cranking, the low
signal goes away.  Though I could not see any LEDs on the probe blink,
when I flipped the switch to pulses, it was showing steady pulses.  
Obviously of a very short duration, or I should have seen the high / low
LED's blinking.  I am guessing that since the low signal goes away when
cranking, the EC-2 must be seeing a sufficient RPM from the CAS.  But
this is guessing.
I also verified all of the power andf grounds to the coils and EC-2.  I
am just not finding anything wrong in the wiring.  I had redone the
wiring, and although I was pretty careful about tagging everything,
there is always a risk of getting something wrong, but I checked and
double checked with nothing out of place.

I ran the mode 8 test again to watch both plugs I had out, and it
produces consistent sparks that are bright blue.

The only wiring that I haven't double checked is the new wiring to the
EM-3.  But, there aren't many connections from the EM-3 to the EC-2, and
the EM-3 seems to be communicating with the EC-2,as I am not getting the
"NO-OP" that I have heard others talk about.  I really have not messed
with the EM-3 much so far though, because I've first been trying to get
the engine started.

Right now, I'm recharging the battery.

Steve


Bobby J. Hughes wrote:
> Steve,
>
> My CAS was always wired correctly also. My coils \ plugs fired in test

> mode but not during cranking. Are you having problems with one plugs
> during cranking are all plugs?
>
> Bobby
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]
> On Behalf Of Steve Brooks
> Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 9:11 AM
> To: Rotary motors in aircraft
> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Battery Location[FlyRotary] Re: No start
> after engine replacement
>
> I am running an 89-91 13B engine.  Both engines were JDM engines, so I

> assume that the CAS is the correct one.  I had about 60 flight hours
> on the origianl engine, and the new CAS is identical to the old one,
> so I think it is correct.
>
> I did have the controller upgraded for the EC-3, but I beleive that
> Tracy tested it also.  I don't have anything in between the CAS and
> EC-2, it is just wired per the EC-2 manual.
>
> Steve
>
> Bobby J. Hughes wrote:
>  
>>  
>>
>> Steve,
>>
>> You mention you changed CAS with the new engine and then replaced it
>> with you old CAS. Three questions.
>>
>> Did you have any kind of external circuit between the original CAS
>> and
>>    
>
>  
>> the EC2?  Diode matrix etc.
>>
>> Did your EC2 go back to Tracy for upgrades between last time it was
>> running and the new engine \ CAS.
>>
>> Are you sure you have he correct CAS for your engine \ EC2 version.
>>
>>
>> I had a problem with upgrades \ CAS but it was on a renesis. Very
>> similar to what your describing.
>>
>> Before first start I installed the diode matrix what was being tested

>> and used by some folks. Engine started fine.
>> I sent my EC2 back to Tracy for upgrades and I believe he put the
>>    
> "fix"
>  
>> on the EC2 during upgrades. When I reinstalled the EM2 it would not
>> start. I ended up removing the external diodes and the engine started

>> right up. Problem solved...sort of.
>> I then started having the high rpm cutout problem because of high CAS

>> voltage. But first I let one sparkplug fall off the engine during
>> testing and it smoked the EC2. So back to Tracy it went. I ended up
>> installing a different resistor \ zener diode circuit that Dennis H
>> and Mark S are using to control the voltage at high rpms. Tracy was
>> at
>>    
>
>  
>> a loss as to why I needed the external circuit with the mod's he has
>> made to my EC2.
>>
>> Bobby Hughes
>> RV10, Gen 1 (low oil pressure) Super Renesis ...err
>> 25 hrs in Phase 1,  68 hrs total engine time.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I measured the voltage on the engine power buss, and with the master
>> switch on, it is 12.5 VDC.  While cranking the voltage drops to 10.2
>> VDC.  I'm not sure what is normal, so I'm interested in any thoughts
>> on that.
>>
>> I switched the engine bus over to the front battery, and I was
>> surprised to see that while cranking the voltage dropped to 9.5
volts.
>>    
>
>  
>> It has a rather long wire running from the front to the rear of the
>> aircraft, so perhaps I am dropping some voltage since it is powering
>> the coils, injectors, fuel pump, etc., though for this test, I did
>> not
>>    
>
>  
>> have the fuel pump turned on.
>>
>> I know that it does maintain the engine already running, which is
>> really what I intended with the emergency power bypass.
>>
>> The cranking RPM appears to be normal, but I have no way to measure
>> the actual RPM, that I can think of.  I did watch the EM-3 during
>> cranking, but I did not see any RPM indication on the display.  It
>> stayed at zero the whole time, but that may be normal.  I don't know.
>>
>> Steve
>>
>> Ed Anderson wrote:
>>  
>>    
>>> Ok, with a separate battery powering the EC2/3 then you wouldn't
>>> think
>>>    
>>>      
>>  
>>    
>>> cranking load shouldn't drop that source voltage but if
>>> interconnected
>>>    
>>>      
>> - it
>>  
>>    
>>> may.   However, if the battery cranking the engine is low or
dropping
>>>    
>>>      
>> too
>>  
>>    
>>> much voltage, your engine may not be making the two revs at the
>>> required 150 rpm.  However, in that case, I wouldn't think you would

>>> even get the first spark.
>>>
>>> Just my 0.02
>>>
>>> Ed Anderson
>>>
>>> Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>>>
>>> Matthews, NC
>>>
>>> eanderson@carolina.rr.com
>>>
>>> http://www.andersonee.com
>>>
>>> http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
>>>
>>> http://www.flyrotary.com/
>>>
>>> http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
>>>
>>> http://www.rotaryaviation.com/Rotorhead%20Truth.htm
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]
>>> On Behalf Of Steve Brooks
>>> Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 7:35 AM
>>> To: Rotary motors in aircraft
>>> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Battery Location[FlyRotary] Re: No start
>>> after engine replacement
>>>
>>> Ed,
>>> That sounds like a good explanation for what I am seeing.  The
>>> battery
>>>    
>>>      
>>  
>>    
>>> is about two years old.  It is an Odyssey PC680.  I have two
>>> batteries, one sits on the rear spar and runs all of the engine
>>> stuff,
>>>    
>>>      
>>  
>>    
>>> and the other one is in the nose an runs the avionics.  I have
>>> pretty
>>>      
>
>  
>>> heavy cables running from the battery to the engine, 0 gauge as I
>>> recall, and they are not very long.  Maybe 5 ft for the one hooked
>>> to
>>>      
>
>  
>>> the started, and 3 ft for the one ground connected to the engine
>>>    
>>>      
>> block.
>>  
>>    
>>> I will check the voltage as you suggested while cranking,  I also
>>> have
>>>    
>>>      
>>  
>>    
>>> an emergency bypass switch where I cant power the engine critical
>>> buss
>>>    
>>>      
>>  
>>    
>>> from the front battery, so that would also be a quick test, as I
>>> could
>>>    
>>>      
>>  
>>    
>>> crank from the rear battery and power the EC-2 and coils from the
>>>    
>>>      
>> front.
>>  
>>    
>>> I just installed the EC-3, so I'm not too familiar with it yet.  I
>>> will see if it shows the RPM during cranking.  I'm not sure if it
>>> does
>>>    
>>>      
>> or not.
>>  
>>    
>>> Steve
>>>
>>> Ed Anderson wrote:
>>>  
>>>    
>>>      
>>>> Steve, where is your battery located?  Engine compartment or nose??
>>>> Long leads can drop a lot of voltage under cranking current.  New
>>>> engine
>>>>    
>>>>      
>>>>        
>>> may
>>>  
>>>    
>>>      
>>>> have  higher compression and  may take more juice than previous
>>>> engine to turn it over fast enough.  The fact that your old engine
>>>> was also hard to start makes me wonder.
>>>>
>>>> Ed
>>>>
>>>> Ed Anderson
>>>>
>>>> Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>>>>
>>>> Matthews, NC
>>>>
>>>> eanderson@carolina.rr.com
>>>>
>>>> http://www.andersonee.com
>>>>
>>>> http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
>>>>
>>>> http://www.flyrotary.com/
>>>>
>>>> http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
>>>>
>>>> http://www.rotaryaviation.com/Rotorhead%20Truth.htm
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: Rotary motors in aircraft
>>>> [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]
>>>> On Behalf Of Steve Brooks
>>>> Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2009 4:46 PM
>>>> To: Rotary motors in aircraft
>>>> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: No start after engine replacement
>>>>
>>>> That's interesting.  I had not made any changes to mode 8, but it
>>>> is
>>>>        
>
>  
>>>> certainly easy enough to reset it to default.
>>>>
>>>> Steve
>>>>
>>>> Steven W. Boese wrote:
>>>>  
>>>>    
>>>>      
>>>>        
>>>>> Steve,
>>>>>
>>>>> It might be useful to reset the EC2 timing mode 8 setting to the
>>>>> default
>>>>>    
>>>>>      
>>>>>        
>>>>>          
>>>> setting. My EC2's do not produce consistent or strong sparks at
>>>> RPM's
>>>>    
>>>>      
>>>>        
>>> less
>>>  
>>>    
>>>      
>>>> than about 1200 if the EC2 timing is advanced using mode 8.  The
>>>> greater
>>>>    
>>>>      
>>>>        
>>> the
>>>  
>>>    
>>>      
>>>> advance, the weaker the spark.  Occasionally there will be a strong

>>>> spark, but the timing on these is very retarded.  With my EC2's,
>>>> the
>>>>        
>
>  
>>>> most consistent low RPM sparks are obtained at the most retarded
>>>> mode
>>>>      
>>>>        
>>  
>>    
>>>> 8
>>>>    
>>>>      
>>>>        
>>> setting,
>>>  
>>>    
>>>      
>>>> but the EC2 must be receiving CAS signals (engine running) in order

>>>> to
>>>>    
>>>>      
>>>>        
>>> make
>>>  
>>>    
>>>      
>>>> this change.
>>>>  
>>>>    
>>>>      
>>>>        
>>>>> Steve Boese
>>>>>
>>>>> ________________________________________
>>>>> From: Rotary motors in aircraft [flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
>>>>> Behalf
>>>>>      
>>>>>        
>>>>>          
>>> Of
>>>  
>>>    
>>>      
>>>>>    
>>>>>      
>>>>>        
>>>>>          
>>>> Steve Brooks [cozy4pilot@gmail.com]
>>>>  
>>>>    
>>>>      
>>>>        
>>>>> Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2009 1:09 PM
>>>>> To: Rotary motors in aircraft
>>>>> Subject: [FlyRotary] No start after engine replacement
>>>>>
>>>>> I replaced my original engine with another newly rebuilt block,
>>>>> and
>>>>>          
>
>  
>>>>> also added the EM-3 to the installation. The old engine was hard
>>>>> to
>>>>>          
>
>  
>>>>> start, and was also making a ticking noise when it did start,
>>>>> which
>>>>>          
>
>  
>>>>> didn't used to be there.
>>>>>
>>>>> After several failed attempts, and double checking the
>>>>> connections,
>>>>>          
>
>  
>>>>> I had a neighbor help me do some testing.  While the ignition test

>>>>> runs fine, when checking one of the plugs, it sparks when I
>>>>> initially crank the engine, and then stops.  Once in a while there

>>>>> will be another spark, but not very often.
>>>>>
>>>>> I reinstalled the original CAS and have the same issue.  I have
>>>>> double checked the CAS connections and checked them with an ohm
>>>>> meter to the connector on the EC-2 also. Everything seems to check

>>>>> out, yet I get only that initial spark. I have replaced the spark
>>>>> plugs with new ones, and whenever I pull one to check it, is is
>>>>> wet
>>>>>          
>
>  
>>>>> with fuel, which is no surprise.
>>>>>
>>>>> I am wondering if anyone has seen this type of problem, or if you
>>>>> have any suggestions.
>>>>>
>>>>> Regards,
>>>>> Steve Brooks
>>>>> Cozy MKIV 13B turbo
>>>>>
>>>>> --
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