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Ok, with a separate battery powering the EC2/3 then you wouldn't think
cranking load shouldn't drop that source voltage but if interconnected - it
may. However, if the battery cranking the engine is low or dropping too
much voltage, your engine may not be making the two revs at the required 150
rpm. However, in that case, I wouldn't think you would even get the first
spark.
Just my 0.02
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
http://www.andersonee.com
http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
http://www.flyrotary.com/
http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/Rotorhead%20Truth.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
Behalf Of Steve Brooks
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 7:35 AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Battery Location[FlyRotary] Re: No start after
engine replacement
Ed,
That sounds like a good explanation for what I am seeing. The battery
is about two years old. It is an Odyssey PC680. I have two batteries,
one sits on the rear spar and runs all of the engine stuff, and the
other one is in the nose an runs the avionics. I have pretty heavy
cables running from the battery to the engine, 0 gauge as I recall, and
they are not very long. Maybe 5 ft for the one hooked to the started,
and 3 ft for the one ground connected to the engine block.
I will check the voltage as you suggested while cranking, I also have
an emergency bypass switch where I cant power the engine critical buss
from the front battery, so that would also be a quick test, as I could
crank from the rear battery and power the EC-2 and coils from the front.
I just installed the EC-3, so I'm not too familiar with it yet. I will
see if it shows the RPM during cranking. I'm not sure if it does or not.
Steve
Ed Anderson wrote:
> Steve, where is your battery located? Engine compartment or nose??
> Long leads can drop a lot of voltage under cranking current. New engine
may
> have higher compression and may take more juice than previous engine to
> turn it over fast enough. The fact that your old engine was also hard to
> start makes me wonder.
>
> Ed
>
> Ed Anderson
>
> Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>
> Matthews, NC
>
> eanderson@carolina.rr.com
>
> http://www.andersonee.com
>
> http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
>
> http://www.flyrotary.com/
>
> http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
>
> http://www.rotaryaviation.com/Rotorhead%20Truth.htm
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
> Behalf Of Steve Brooks
> Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2009 4:46 PM
> To: Rotary motors in aircraft
> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: No start after engine replacement
>
> That's interesting. I had not made any changes to mode 8, but it is
> certainly easy enough to reset it to default.
>
> Steve
>
> Steven W. Boese wrote:
>
>> Steve,
>>
>> It might be useful to reset the EC2 timing mode 8 setting to the default
>>
> setting. My EC2's do not produce consistent or strong sparks at RPM's
less
> than about 1200 if the EC2 timing is advanced using mode 8. The greater
the
> advance, the weaker the spark. Occasionally there will be a strong spark,
> but the timing on these is very retarded. With my EC2's, the most
> consistent low RPM sparks are obtained at the most retarded mode 8
setting,
> but the EC2 must be receiving CAS signals (engine running) in order to
make
> this change.
>
>> Steve Boese
>>
>> ________________________________________
>> From: Rotary motors in aircraft [flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf
Of
>>
> Steve Brooks [cozy4pilot@gmail.com]
>
>> Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2009 1:09 PM
>> To: Rotary motors in aircraft
>> Subject: [FlyRotary] No start after engine replacement
>>
>> I replaced my original engine with another newly rebuilt block, and also
>> added the EM-3 to the installation. The old engine was hard to start,
>> and was also making a ticking noise when it did start, which didn't used
>> to be there.
>>
>> After several failed attempts, and double checking the connections, I
>> had a neighbor help me do some testing. While the ignition test runs
>> fine, when checking one of the plugs, it sparks when I initially crank
>> the engine, and then stops. Once in a while there will be another
>> spark, but not very often.
>>
>> I reinstalled the original CAS and have the same issue. I have double
>> checked the CAS connections and checked them with an ohm meter to the
>> connector on the EC-2 also. Everything seems to check out, yet I get
>> only that initial spark. I have replaced the spark plugs with new ones,
>> and whenever I pull one to check it, is is wet with fuel, which is no
>> surprise.
>>
>> I am wondering if anyone has seen this type of problem, or if you have
>> any suggestions.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Steve Brooks
>> Cozy MKIV 13B turbo
>>
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