RV-8 Renesis N113BR
EC-2 EM-2 RD-C
Catto 76/88 Tuned intake 17.5 inches, Tuned exhaust 24 in
Flys like an RV, quietest plane on the field. 3.5 hours in the air.  My legs have stopped shaking when I fly.

Thanks to the 2 guys who added cowl flaps and solved their cooling problems.  I listened to them and others who had conflicting views here at Stead.  The conventional wisdom is that the discharge air from the cowl needs to be about 80% of the incoming air.  At least for air cooled engines.  One guy mentioned that the Sube flyers had a way to cool better by cutting holes in the outside bottom of the cowling just forward of the firewall and putting scoops on the inside to direct the air out.  Since the pressure is higher on the outside of the cowling, there has to be a reverse scoop (facing backwards) so there is a low pressure area and the air will flow out.  On the stock RV cowl, the factory inlet area is about 50 sq inches and the outlet about 50 sq inches too. My inlet is about 44 sq in as I use part of the left cheek for the  intake manifold.  The sube guys figured out that the outlet has to be 1.5 to 1.8 times bigger than the inlet.  I cut my cowl (ouch) and added about 17 sq inches per side on the bottom for a total of 34 sq inches additional discharge.   Where I used to climb out at 205 oil and 195 water on a 40 degree day.  I'm now climbing out at 175 oil and 185 water on a 60 degree day.  Running a little cool during cruise so will be building adjustable cowl flaps with servos.  I'm not yet developing full power, so sizes may change.  I'm using an oil cooler slightly larger than stock and the radiator that Tracy is using in his RV-8 so I am probably over radiatored.  Of course I can't at present find the Sube file where I got this info, but I find it later and send it.  Cooling is still not very good on the ground and on hot days the taxi will have to be short.  Once in the air it is great!
Thanks for the write ups by Ed and Al.  I not only learned, but took action.  Added battery back up for my Dynon EFIS in case I my electrics fail, I will still have airspeed and altitude.  I added a canopy switch that turns OFF a big panel light when the canopy is latched TIGHT and added it to my checklist.

Don Walker