Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #4639
From: Ed Anderson <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Expansion Chambers
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 10:09:33 -0500
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
 
 /jug/container.  Well -- I also recommend a 21-24 psi radiator cap.    
Thanks, Ed, Al & Mark for you're input. 
I think I'll go with the simplest solution first, then add an expansion chamber if that doesn't work.
I'm thinking of getting one of those plastic overflow bottles with a screen washer bottle fitted up next to it from a breakers yard. I'd mount this high on the firewall. It would be simple to pipe the screen washer to the plenum for use in hot day climb-out. Any thoughts?
 
21-24 PSI seems a bit high for the cap, though. I have a 16lb cap. Do you think I should change it?
John
 
John, Regarding the radiator cap capacity.  The radiator  cap is a "gauge" pressure cap in that it relies on atmospheric pressure along with its spring to help it hold the coolant in.  At altitude, with less atmospheric pressure, the overall capability of the cap is lower.  Also, reportedly they tend to loose a bit of their capacity after a few heating/cooling cycles.
 
I tried 16 PSI cap and found I lost coolant on each flight. Once the cap releases fluid that lowers pressure inside the radiators which if hot enough can then send a big surge through the cap and overflow your overflow bottle.
 
I have recommend to a couple of folks who reported loosing cooling using 16 psi caps to go to a higher capacity cap and that solved their problem.  In addition, most of the literature on coolants indicate that you would like to keep the coolant pressure high enough so that the coolant (water) would not have a tendency to boil even at temps above 212F. 
 
So you can try your 16 psi cap, but if you find yourself loosing fluids (even with an overflow bottle) on flights, then try a higher capacity radiator cap.
 
Here is what on radiator maker says about radiator caps
 
Radiator Caps
In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently. We recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept. In general, performance radiators will accept 22-24 PSI, and professional racing radiators will accept a 29-31 PSI.

The coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F. However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off. The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate. If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure.
 
I don't quite understand their statement about the engine not cooling down after venting until you turn it off.  I would think that reducing power and therefore  heat into the coolant would cause the problem to subside - assuming you have any coolant remaining {:>), perhaps their statement "..and Vented Coolant" means ALL the coolant.
 
Evaporator cores have a burst pressure around 250 psi, so that is not your limitation.  I would hesitate using more than 21-24 psi as I would be concerned about pushing water out around the water pump shaft.
 
In any case, your decision as always {:>)
 
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
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