|
|
But do you really want to use hardened bolts anchored in aluminum? Lynn said it the other day. It would be better to choose a bolt where you could get some stretch out of it before it pulls out of the anchor material.
Ernest,
Generally, there isn't much choice. Threaded fastener specifications normally include some degree of heat-treating - hardening and then drawing the temper to achieve a "grade" of hardness. I have seen bolts made from aluminum, but I don't know as I'd want to use them on any critical component of an airplane. Yes internal threads in aluminum aren't as strong as those in steel, but we see steel cap screws in aluminum threads in all kinds of automotive applications. The strength of an internal thread in aluminum can be improved by swaging the thread with a thread-former instead of cutting it with a conventional tap.
Dale R.
Either I didn't ask my question properly, or didn't read your answer the way you meant it. Well, it's been a long day in the heat, so I'll used that as an excuse. BTW, I have the Harley Davidson generator now. 38 Amps. $288.17. 9lbs. My mount is 1/4" to long, or it would be bolted up to the engine now. I'll be posting pictures RSN.
Back to the question. We're talking about using "good bolts" to hold the adapter plate to the engine. "Good bolts" tend to imply case hardened/ class 8 or some such. But those "good bolts" are anchored in aluminum. From my way of thinking, the only thing the "good bolts" would be good for is pulling the threads out of the aluminum. I would think that the strength of an aluminum anchored bolt is not the primary concern. Strength should take a back seat to corrosion protection, availability and cost (in that order).
--
http://www.ronpaultimeline.com
|
|