The thrust bearing would need to be a multiple layer plain bearing for
thrust and drag. A doubled (at least thrust plate). A bending load on the taper
of the crank would soon have you driving the prop with just the alignment key,
as the counter weight is quite soft and the taper would let go. An outboard
bearing would eliminate that problem...........
And provide a place for some real thrust bearings eliminating the plain
bearings. In fact you could use one of Tracy's reduction units without the
guts. Then you can put the guts in the redrive. And test back to back
outcomes. I saw some huge ducted fan models last weekend going like
rockets. Motors turning up 50,000 RPM.
I think it will work.
Lynn E. Hanover
In a message dated 3/10/2008 7:23:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rusty@radrotary.com writes:
Thrust bearing is a real consideration but not a show stopper. I'm
thinking along the lines of a 3rd gen or Renesis thrust bearing (larger
than the 2nd gen part) and bolting the prop with a short extension
directly to the counterweight. The rotary's crankshaft is about the only
one I would consider doing this with. This would still mean
changing the thrust bearing every 500 hours or so.