X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imo-m26.mx.aol.com ([64.12.137.7] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2.0) with ESMTP id 2786025 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 10 Mar 2008 19:41:36 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=64.12.137.7; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-m26.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r9.3.) id q.d4e.24d7e132 (41809) for ; Mon, 10 Mar 2008 19:40:51 -0400 (EDT) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 19:40:50 EDT Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: direct drive- was Re: Anyone have an RD-1C for sale? To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1205192450" X-Mailer: Unknown sub 36 X-Spam-Flag: NO -------------------------------1205192450 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The thrust bearing would need to be a multiple layer plain bearing for thrust and drag. A doubled (at least thrust plate). A bending load on the taper of the crank would soon have you driving the prop with just the alignment key, as the counter weight is quite soft and the taper would let go. An outboard bearing would eliminate that problem........... And provide a place for some real thrust bearings eliminating the plain bearings. In fact you could use one of Tracy's reduction units without the guts. Then you can put the guts in the redrive. And test back to back outcomes. I saw some huge ducted fan models last weekend going like rockets. Motors turning up 50,000 RPM. I think it will work. Lynn E. Hanover In a message dated 3/10/2008 7:23:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rusty@radrotary.com writes: Thrust bearing is a real consideration but not a show stopper. I'm thinking along the lines of a 3rd gen or Renesis thrust bearing (larger than the 2nd gen part) and bolting the prop with a short extension directly to the counterweight. The rotary's crankshaft is about the only one I would consider doing this with. This would still mean changing the thrust bearing every 500 hours or so. **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) -------------------------------1205192450 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
The thrust bearing would need to be a multiple layer plain bearing for=20 thrust and drag. A doubled (at least thrust plate). A bending load on the ta= per=20 of the crank would soon have you driving the prop with just the alignment ke= y,=20 as the counter weight is quite soft and the taper would let go. An outboard=20 bearing would eliminate that problem...........
 
And provide a place for some real thrust bearings eliminating the plain= =20 bearings. In fact you could use one of Tracy's reduction units without the=20 guts. Then you can put the guts in the redrive. And test back to back=20 outcomes. I saw some huge ducted fan models last weekend going like=20 rockets. Motors turning up 50,000 RPM.
I think it will work.
 
Lynn E. Hanover
 
 
 
In a message dated 3/10/2008 7:23:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,=20 rusty@radrotary.com writes:
<= FONT=20 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size= =3D2>
Thrust bearing is a real consideration but not a show stopper. =20= I'm=20 thinking along the lines of a 3rd gen or Renesis thrust bearing (larg= er=20 than the 2nd gen part)  and bolting the prop with a short extension=20 directly to the counterweight.  The rotary's crankshaft is about the=20= only=20 one I would consider doing this with.  This would still mean=20 changing the thrust bearing every 500 hours or so. 
 



It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice= on AOL Money & Finance.
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