Is coolant allowed into the intake to heat it up?

 

I have never taken a 13B apart but the 12As had that system.

Put it back together with just the seals the irons and housings, and pressurize the coolant system while it is full. Look inside with a mirror and a light. I have been abusing these things since 1980 and the only water I have had get into one was after I over heated one and that shortens the rotor housing a bit and lets it leak. As long as its hot it seals up fine. It leaks after its cold again. Check housings and irons for dead flat.

 

Ink up a surface plate and rub the pieces on the ink. A standard procedure for rebuilding machine tools where flat is very important. Any machinist with a surface plate will know what to do. A bit out of true is OK for housings so long as the irons are flat. The housings can be twisted by hand and when torqued up just go as flat as the irons. (If the irons are flat) . The housings need to be the same height all the way around within a thousandth or so. I don't have those specs in front of me. The "O" rings need room to lay down in the grooves and not hydraulic and hold the pieces apart.

 

I have used 18 gage teflon insulated hook up wire for those compression "O" rings with a small bead of silicone under it.

 

I have reused the stock compression "O" rings over  again several times. I reuse the black outer (water) "O" ring many times, with a splice at the top of the engine. Just a dab of silicone on the splice. Never had a leak.

 

With a "J" bridge port the compression "O" ring is cut out to clear both sides of the intake port. A dab of silicone at each end and a barb stood up in the "O" ring groove to keep the ends of the "O" ring from extruding into the port.

 

Scrap the oil pump gears. They are powdered metal and can become powdered metal again when stressed.

 

Even if they have no dents, pitch them You could use the housing if its OK but new gears have a new housing anyway.

 

The picture is the thrust assembly. When the bolt is loose or removed from the front pulley, the spacer sleeve slides out a bit and allows the rear bearing to drop down onto the crank and on reassembly the sleeve clamps down onto the bearing race and freeplay disappears.

 

 Freeplay is to protect the bearings from running with a load all of the time. Even when installed the engine must have the spec freeplay. You can move the crank with your hand to be sure it has some free play.

Should be .0015" to .0035". The small number for street cars gently driven. The larger number for screamers above the red line a lot.

 

Below is a picture of the thrust assembly.

 

Lynn E. Hanover

 

 

 

 

 

 

In a message dated 3/9/2008 10:15:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, CBarber@TexasAttorney.net writes:

So guys, what do y'all think.  What do you think is causing the coolant in
the rotor housings.  I really want to figure this out before I put the dang
thing back together.  Your help is appreciated.  TIA.

All the best,

Chris