Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #41814
From: Ed Anderson <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Disaster Averted
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 19:52:00 -0500
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Dave,

Before you tear into it, I have on two occasions had green fluid dripping from a tail pipe with the same Oh S--- !!  reaction.  However, they happened after pretty cold temps and after firing the engine up expecting to see the coolant pressurized by combustion gases, the leak went away.  I don't know but, I suspected that the cold temps caused something to shrink just enough for a bit of coolant to leak through.

Before tearing it down, I would remove the exhaust and shine a light (borescope would be idea) and do a visual inspection inside the rotor housing looking for signs of a leak.  It might help to use a compressor to pressurize the coolant system to 15-20 psi.  It you have a coolant O ring leak, the pressure will either seal it OR you will likely see the coolant leaking into the housing.    Check around the bottom of the engine where the PSUR attaches if it is caused by a loose tension bolt you will likely see signs of green coolant there.  Most of the time if its a bolt it leaks on the outside so you shouldn't see in it the exhaust - but, it might run along the bottom of the pipe giving the impression its coming out the exhaust.

Good Luck


Ed
----- Original Message ----- From: "David Staten" <Dastaten@earthlink.net>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 6:57 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Disaster Averted


Chris informed me this morning that we had coolant coming out of the tailpipe. I forsee us tearing things down in short order, if its not something simple like a loose bolt somewhere (not that i have any idea how one of our tension bolts could have worked loose)..

Dave

Tracy Crook wrote:
I was impressed with the IVO static thrust when I tried it too.  Just didn't like the cruise and top speed numbers but that should be less of a factor on canards since the air is dirty near the hub where the "IVO drag" is.
 Can't figure out why you have hot start problems from your descriptions but I'm not real familiar with your intake systems layout.   I was having similar hot starting problems with my 20B but I knew the cause (low cranking compression).  I had a custom hand built set of apex seals that turned out to have dimension errors.  Do you know your hot cranking compression?  If not, it's worth measuring given your symptoms.
 The other starting problem I've seen lately was on Renesis crank sensors caused by starter noise pickup.  I know you don't have a Renesis CAS but it might be worth trying the 1000 ohm resistors on your 2nd gen sensors just in case.  (remember, there are 2 sensors in the 2nd gen CAS).   The key symptom with starter induced noise is that the engine will often try it's best to start (or sometimes actually start) at the moment when you release the starter switch.
 Tracy
On Sun, Mar 2, 2008 at 11:15 AM, Christopher Barber <CBarber@texasattorney.net <mailto:CBarber@texasattorney.net>> wrote:

    It is amazing what a little change can make. After I let my engine
    cool for
    about two hours last night I was able to get it to start again.  I
    had run
    it earlier at fast idle to see how long it took to get the temps
    up.  It
    took about 16 minutes for the coolant temp to hit 200 degrees on an 80
    degree day.  Most of the run the oil temp was almost exactly the
    same as the
    coolant, but was about 12-14 degrees higher when I shut it down.
     Not too
    bad I hope even though it did seem to run rich from yesterday with the
    mixture knob at 12oclock and needed leaning.

    While I was waiting for it to cool I decided to flatten out the IVO
    in-flight adjustable pitch prop. It was almost there already, but
    I hooked a
    battery to the contact and made it fully flat.  After screwing
    with the hot
    start for a while, it finally fired up (Geeesh, what a pain).
     Everything
    seemed normal except it was rough near idle but smoothed out as I
    gave it
    some throttle.  On a wild hair I figured I would increase it to
    WOT to see
    if would stay smooth......BOY, did it stay smooth.  The rpm shot
    to above
    6000 before I knew it (without the EM RPM numbers jumping around
    this time
    as has been a continuing problem) and the plane, which was chocked
    with
    chocks and old full size batteries and a few assorted junk engine
    parts
    started moving forward.......WITH FULL BRAKES APPLIED....skidding
    towards my
    hangar mates restoration project VariEZ. HOLLY CRAP!!!!!, where
    the hell did
    that come from?????  I could barely hit 5000 yesterday.

    Needles to say, I quickly throttled back with the mixed emotion of
    terror of
    my own stupidity and the rush of excitement to all the seeming new
    power.
    Until I remembered that I changed the pitch on the prop I could not
    understand where all the power came from as I did not change
    anything else.
    Mind you I had INTENDED to look into my crystal ball for the
    answer to my
    warm start problems during the cooling time, but, alas, an airport
    friend
    stopped by and it was mutual Liberaltarian social hour <g>.

    FWIW, just a combination war story/progress report with memories
    of John
    Slade reporting on a similar experience a few years back <g>.

    All the best,

    Chris

    Christopher Barber
    Attorney and Counselor at Law
    5116 Bissonnet, No 418
    Bellaire, Texas 77401

    Serving the Needs of Senior Texans through
    Planning with Purpose

    281-464-LAWS (5297)
    281-754-4168 Fax
    www.TexasAttorney.net <http://www.texasattorney.net/>



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