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Your coolant reservoir should be above engine.
1) If it is, remove two cups of air from the reservoir. Then repeat your
test.
2) If you now see pressure rise above 22 psi within 5 minutes of cold
start, you clearly have compression gases leaking into cooling system or bad
gage.
3) Air in the block is 10 times more significant than any other cooling
factor. Make darn sure you don't have any. It causes local boiling, high temps,
strange behavior.
Operating with two cups of air under cap is an important safety and
diagnosis advantage. Everyone should do it. With that two cups, you only see 22
psi if you have a genuine problem. You only see 0 psi if you have genuine
problem. The pressure is then a very fast and reliable indicator of system
integrity. So two cups of air has no negative effect on system efficiency, just
a substantial improvement in safety. Only time it could be a negative would be
if your reservoir was way too small, way too low, or flowed way too much
coolant.
Since you describe high temps AND pressure, I suspect you have temperature
problem.
I deliberately overheated my engine many times so that I was intimate with
pressure and temperature patterns. Then tested various concepts. Don't
recommend you do the same.
-al wick
I just recently got my Renesis
started again after finishing my cowl. I seem to be getting very high
coolant pressures. I can only run the engine about 10-15 minutes before
hitting the redline at 210*. My water pressure is at 27 Lbs at that
time. I only have a 22 Lb radiator cap, so I assume that I am blowing
into the recovery tank, but I have not confirmed that. My oil temp has
never exceeded about 165*. It might have gone higher if I could have run
longer???
This whole water pressure thing
has me a little baffled. Since this is a closed system and the only way
pressure can build is due to the expansion of the coolant after heating???, I
am confused by some comments that have been made from time to time. I
remember something that Tracy said about his pressure would build for
a time, then go to zero. It seems to me that the pressure should
correlate to the temp pretty closely since it is a closed system??
Can someone enlighten me a little
on the science of this pressure? It seems to me that there could be some
pressure build up on the positive side of the pump, but it would go negative
on the suction side, so the net effect of the pump should be close to
zero??
Also, my Renesis had only 1800
miles on it when I bought it, so I did not have to tear it down. As a
result, I am somewhat in the dark as to how the water flows through the
system. Could someone help me with that? I had to remove the
thermostat tower for height clearance , so I made an adapter plate that takes
water from the top outlet of the pump and sends it to the radiator (double
pass), then from the radiator, it returns to the lower inlet of the
pump.
Thanks,
Bill
B
-al wick
Cozy IV powered by Turbo Subaru
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