Return-Path: <13brv3@bellsouth.net> Received: from imf16aec.mail.bellsouth.net ([205.152.59.64] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.1.5) with ESMTP id 2641689 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sat, 18 Oct 2003 10:06:26 -0400 Received: from rad ([68.212.14.231]) by imf16aec.mail.bellsouth.net (InterMail vM.5.01.05.27 201-253-122-126-127-20021220) with ESMTP id <20031018140625.SBJM1780.imf16aec.mail.bellsouth.net@rad> for ; Sat, 18 Oct 2003 10:06:25 -0400 From: "Russell Duffy" <13brv3@bellsouth.net> To: "'Rotary motors in aircraft'" Subject: RE: [FlyRotary] Re: Alternator wires Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 09:06:27 -0500 Message-ID: <005b01c39581$05ea3220$6001a8c0@rad> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_005C_01C39557.1D142A20" X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook, Build 10.0.4510 Importance: Normal In-Reply-To: X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005C_01C39557.1D142A20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Glad you mentioned that. I missed it. I was going to hook it the wires = up today. I presume the diode is that arrow / line thingy between the bulb = and the terminal. Any idea what I buy from Radio Shack?=20 =20 It probably doesn't have to be anything fancy. I used a spare diode = that I had laying around. Look for something that's rated for more than 12V, = and a couple amps of current or more. The actual current will depend on what = you use for a lamp. =20 =20 The large indicator lamps that I bought at the local auto parts place = are actually LEDs. If that's the case, you can skip the diode, since that's = the D in LED. I'd want to put a meter on the LED and make sure that current will only flow one way. Multicolor LEDs flow both ways, so you don't = want one of those. =20 =20 I have direct experience that says otherwise. My wifes chevy simply died without warning. The alternator fried the battery. Took about 15 = seconds. Bob Nuckolls's OV protection setup is cheap and easy.=20 =20 I remain skeptical that an alternator can fry a battery in 15 seconds. Batteries are mighty durable, and I would bet the alternator was cooking = it for a long time prior to giving you any warning. =20 =20 As for the OV protection, I initially wanted to add Bob's crowbar = circuit, but couldn't do it easily with the internal regulator on the Mazda alternator. Now that I have an alternator that can be turned off, I may look into it again. FWIW, I realize that you can add the OV circuit, = with a contactor to disconnect the stock alternator. The problem is that you don't stop the alternator from producing power. Even disconnected, it = will continue to run in it's malfunctioning state until something inside = burns up. Hopefully, it won't literally catch fire :-) =20 I've installed enough "stuff" to handle engine info that I'm = considering doing without the EM2. =20 =20 I'd just hate to move up to #1 on the list :-)=20 =20 Rusty =20 =20 =20 ------=_NextPart_000_005C_01C39557.1D142A20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Message
Glad=20 you mentioned that. I missed it. I was going to hook it the wires = up today.=20 I presume the diode is that arrow / line thingy between the = bulb and=20 the terminal. Any idea what I buy from Radio Shack? 
&nbs= p;
It probably doesn't = have to be=20 anything fancy.  I used a spare diode that I had laying = around. =20 Look for something that's rated for more than 12V, and a couple amps of = current=20 or more.  The actual current will depend on what you use for a = lamp. 
 
The large indicator = lamps that I=20 bought at the local auto parts place are actually LEDs.  If that's = the=20 case, you can skip the diode, since that's the D in = LED.  I'd=20 want to put a meter on the LED and make sure that current will only flow = one=20 way.  Multicolor LEDs flow both ways, so you don't want one of = those.    <= /SPAN>
&nbs= p;
I have=20 direct experience that says otherwise. My wifes chevy simply died = without=20 warning. The alternator fried the battery. Took about 15 seconds. Bob = Nuckolls's=20 OV protection setup is cheap and easy. 
&nbs= p;
I remain skeptical that = an=20 alternator can fry a battery in 15 seconds.  Batteries are mighty = durable,=20 and I would bet the alternator was cooking it for a long time prior = to=20 giving you any=20 warning.  
&nbs= p;
As for the OV = protection, I=20 initially wanted to add Bob's crowbar circuit, but couldn't do it = easily=20 with the internal regulator on the Mazda alternator.  Now that I = have an=20 alternator that can be turned off, I may look into it again.   = FWIW, I=20 realize that you can add the OV circuit, with a contactor = to disconnect the=20 stock alternator.  The problem is that you don't stop the = alternator from=20 producing power.  Even disconnected, it will continue to = run in=20 it's malfunctioning state until something inside burns up.  = Hopefully,=20 it won't literally catch fire=20 :-)
&nbs= p;
 I've = installed enough=20 "stuff" to handle engine info that I'm considering doing without = the=20 EM2.  
&nbs= p;
I'd=20 just hate to move up to #1 on the list=20 :-) 
&nbs= p;
Rusty
&nbs= p;
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