Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #38016
From: Bob Perkinson <bobperk@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: [FlyRotary] Re: PP construction methods
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2007 19:14:58 -0500
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>

I have not read all the suggestion about sealing the tube for a P port engine, (just got back from Brasil) so this suggestion may have been tossed around and thrown out.  If there is enough wall thickness on each side of the cooling chamber a couple of radial groves could be cut into the housing wall and the tube rolled into place. (Expanded internally)  This would eliminate the need for any type of sealant in the between the coolant chamber and the inner and outer wall.  If there is any doubt about the seal, then a small amount of an anaerobic gasket sealer could be used on the rolled faces.  I am not sure if a rolling tool for that size tube would be readily available or not. 

Pro Seal keeps very nicely for a long time in the fridge

 

Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9 N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2007 8:53 AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: PP construction methods

Thanks for the info, Jerry.
 
Who knows with all this interest in a PP - perhaps a running 2 rotor engine with PP will show up on the list - we all know Richard has a one rotor PP running.
 
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Hey
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2007 9:11 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: PP construction methods

Thanks,  I made two of them about two years ago.  Now that I am building a single rotor, I have the luxury of having a back up housing.   A 1.5" i.d. port is not so small when you look at it in real life.  Its size guarantees an easy life for the tip seals.  Because of the thick wall I was able to put in several deep grooves before pouring in the epoxy.   A word on epoxy.  I totally disagree with using JB weld.  There are epoxies designed for this type application.  One is Duralco 4525.   It is intended for high temp (500º), high performance bonding.  Expensive but worth the piece of mind.  In application, it is extremely thin and very slow curing and thus will flow completely to fill the cavity around the insert.   Mine took an entire day to set up.   Google Duralco 4525 if interested.      Jerry  




On Jun 21, 2007, at 8:39 AM, Ed Anderson wrote:

Nice looking P port, Jerry.
 
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Hey
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2007 8:09 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: PP construction methods


On Jun 21, 2007, at 7:28 AM, Lehanover@aol.com wrote:

In a message dated 6/21/2007 3:12:48 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, lendich@optusnet.com.au writes:
George,
??? Let me get this straight.........Steel tube TIG welded to steel insert.......Then aluminum
insert with O-ring (s) to seal to the steel tube.......? A sketch would be worth a thousand
words for the engineering challenged........
--
Kelly Troyer
I would advise against welding anything to the liner. The housings are actually very flexible,
and will soon warp in favor of the weld beads. A thick walled aluminum tube in a very light press fit through the inner wall.?Same through the outer wall, but not tight through the outer wall is also fine. The inner wall needs good support to prevent chrome cracking when you torque up the stack.
?
Lynn E. Hanover?


Lynn,? similar to this?? My inserts(throttle bodies).? They are 2.25 o.d. and 1.5 i.d.? 6061 T6 ? ?Jerry

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