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That Polysulfide is remarkable stuff. When I started to put together the two parts of an 2 1/4" instrument case, the 3/8" thick flange and the 2.25" tube, I scratched my head over how to join the two. Set screws were simply too labor intensive, crazy glue was too brittle - but, I had some "tank sealer" left over (years on the shelf) which I mixed a small amount together, smeared a thin amount on the inside of the flange and pushed the tube in.
Once it set I could not get the tube out of the flange without destroying the aluminum tube. Really sticks and doesn't turn brittle.
Ed
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tracy crook" <lors01@msn.com>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2007 9:31 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: PP construction methods
I don't intend to build a PP engine anytime soon but FWIW, I think the best possible material for bonding and sealing the insert is Proseal (Polysulfide stuff used to seal fuel tanks). It is amazing stuff and I use it whenever it absolutely, positively has to seal and bond the first time. Not cheap and it has a short shelf life but worth it when failure could mean the loss of a $400 rousing (or worse). Use an appropriate viscosity (it is made in various ones) and it's my guess that welding, O-rings, epoxy, etc would be unnecessary.
Tracy
What is Wildblue? Wildblue is my satelite internet provider that freed me from dial-up hell where DSL is not available.
George,
Let me get this straight.........Steel tube TIG welded to steel insert.......Then aluminum
insert with O-ring (s) to seal to the steel tube.......? A sketch would be worth a thousand
words for the engineering challenged........
--
Kelly Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold
-------------- Original message from "George Lendich" <lendich@optusnet.com.au>: --------------
Rusty,
I Heard similar stories, but am sure Lynn is correct in that, if their done correctly their OK. The one's I seen weren't so good.
The new method of welding to the steel liner, eliminates any possible leak. I originally suggested welding to the inner and outer aluminium, but someone suggested that wasn't feasible, as it was too difficult to get access to.
So Tig welding to the steel liner is good but you have to use a steel tube - which you can't weld externally. So I came up with a method of Tig welding a aluminium tube and flange to the exterior, which has an O ring seal to the steel tube, and passed it by Bill J. who felt it was a good idea. Probably could use a couple of O rings if you felt like it. The advantage of this is that the O ring will allow for differing expansion and contraction rates which might put stress on the inner tig welding. Am elegant solution IMHO.
On the side ports, your suggestion would be OK.
Of course the factory PP were integral to the injection casting.
George ( down under)
Greetings,
One of the things that's always bothered me about making a PP housing is leakage. I've heard very experienced folks say that eventually, any PP housing you make will leak, and it's easy for me to imagine that happening. I don't think I've heard the same thing about factory housings though. How are the ports installed in the factory PP housing?
The other problem with a conversion is the side ports. I know people fill these with their favorite epoxy, but I'd worry about that coming loose, and getting into the rotor. How much would it hurt the PP operation if you just sealed the ports on the outside of the side housings with a plate where the intake would have been?
Cheers,
Rusty
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