Lynn,

 

That was my original plan, still may do it. Bill J. seems to think the bridge may cause more problems than it solves.

 

Monty

I had a friend who was a competitive bass fisherman. He had second line equipment, and had many engine failures. He had them repaired by the factory trained mechanics.

 

When running well, it was down on power to the pros. I took it to my favorite machine shop and ran a dial bore gage through the bores. 4 still standard. One slightly over sized, and one .001 too small. It kept getting black death from pistons dying in it.

 

I honed all the bores to the same size. I used .005 over rings with minimum end gap in the top groove. A total seal gapless ring in the second groove. I used die grinders to get all of the port windows the same size. And deburred. Both intake and exhaust. He learned about cavitation. He learned that full throttle was available only after about 25 MPH. He said the amateur with him was about to cry. He had never had that much boat out of the water. He was very happy.   The bits of iron left across the port to hold the ring in place are a bit beefy in stock trim. The port check was done through the plug hole, so as long as it looked stock, it was stock. So a hint of a radius on the manifold side of the bridges is all you need to perk things up. Those square (as machined) webs are flow disasters. There is very little of the cylinder left with no port of some kind in those engines. Normal full power is 5,500 RPM.

Every stroke is a power stroke.

 

I don't think a bridge in the rotor housing would be in more danger than the rather brittle cast iron bridge in a bridge ported side port engine.

 

Lynn E. Hanover