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Doug, for a 1.5 i.d. intake you will need to bore to 1.625. The insert should be an interference fit that you can push in/remove by hand. After boring the housing, if you find you insert is too loose, no problem. Just go to the next size larger aluminum tube with a thicker wall and turn it to fit. I like 1.75 o.d. inserts with a 1.625 i.d. hole. Paul Lamar will advise that you go with 2 inch o.d. Either way, you are going to make lots of power. Practice gluing with JB Weld. I do not use it for the real thing but others do. I like Duralco 4525. You can google it to find out more. Jerry
On Nov 8, 2006, at 11:00 PM, Jerry Hey wrote: Doug, you don't need a template. Just bore to what ever diameter you want between 1.5" and 2". It is a good idea to bore the port parallel to the horizontal center line of the engine as opposed to perpendicular to the housing face. For a 1.5 hole, center it 2.5 inches above the housing's center line. You can use a 1.375 hole saw to start and then finish with the off set boring head. Have fun. Jerry
I have a friend in Denver who is willing to set up his milling machine to mill out some P-Ports on a couple of my old rotor housings over Thanksgiving break. My question is if any of you know where I can get a copy of a template for use with 1.5" diameter intake pipes. I would think there would be something in the public domain by now (but I could be wrong). The potential benefits of a P-Port make it pretty attractive to at least experiment with at some point and I will be happy to develop between 160 and 170 hp in my 9A so I think that should be doable... Doug RV-9A, 13B installation |
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