Message
The Haynes manual shows a oil level
sensor and temperature sensor located in the pan. The pan I have, has only
the sensor which is held in by a 3 bolt flange, which sensor is this. I
can not remove this without removing the engine, so if it is a temp sensor, I
assume it probably isn't compatible with my gauge.
Hi John,
In the attached pic, you see a big round sensor like what
you describe. This is the oil level sensor, and has only one wire.
If I recall correctly, the wire is grounded if the oil level drops
below the sensor. In the pic, there's a temp sensor just
to the left of the level sensor, but pans vary. Do you know where
you're pan came from?
Where are you fellows picking up your oil
temperature from. The worst case scenario, I can screw the 14 x 1.5 mm
adapter from JC Whitney in the oil plug hole and install the temp sensor in
that.
The "standard" is to measure oil temp after the
oil cooler, as it returns to the engine. There are a couple
reasons for this. One is that Racing Beat determined that 210F was
the limit in that condition, which gives us a known value. The other
reason is that it's the only way to get a good reading. The oil pan
is not the best place to measure temps, because it's draining back
from various locations, at various temps.
You can certainly use the oil pan location, but you'll
have to set your own standard for the limit. The good news is that Lynn
tells us to keep the oil temps down for best power, and virtually
everyone runs them higher than he would like to see. Since the pan will
read higher than it will after the cooler, keep the limit at 210F and you're
ahead of the game.
I
have the water temp sensor and the oil pressure sensors installed in the
holes under the oil filter as in the stock auto installation.
You get extra credit points for knowing that the temp
sensor is for water, not oil. That's a common
mistake.
One other question. On the back of the
gauges, it appears that the power input posts are marked with an I, does mean
power in or does it have another meaning. JohnD
I agree with Dale, probably I for Ignition, or
12V power.
Cheers,
Rusty (Lycoming cooling baffle
hell)
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