Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: flyrotary Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 18:39:50 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from rwcrmhc51.attbi.com ([204.127.198.38] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.0b7) with ESMTP id 1734592 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 16 Sep 2002 14:51:32 -0400 Received: from user ([12.224.119.102]) by rwcrmhc51.attbi.com (InterMail vM.4.01.03.27 201-229-121-127-20010626) with SMTP id <20020916185132.GFIQ16829.rwcrmhc51.attbi.com@user> for ; Mon, 16 Sep 2002 18:51:32 +0000 X-Original-Message-ID: <002601c25db1$fcb79740$6677e00c@user> From: "3 rotor" X-Original-To: References: Subject: 20B intake design X-Original-Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 11:50:51 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2600.0000 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2600.0000 I am attempting to design an intake manifold. If I use the existing manifold and cut most of the tubing off in order to save the portion that bolts to the block, then the tubes need to rise vertically and then turn 90 degrees to pass over the top of the engine. I see that often people make theirs using a full 180 degree bend (like the Powersports). I plan to use a turbo, so am not sure if that design might get in the way. Is there other points I am missing? Should I just buy the intake blank($136?) and not try to use what I have? I cut the injector ports off the original thinking I could weld them on the new one, although I would guess that I'd have to modify the original rail tube spacing. Kevin