Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: flyrotary Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 20:10:16 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from [128.83.126.136] (HELO mail.utexas.edu) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.1.3) with ESMTP-TLS id 2579906 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 15 Sep 2003 08:20:17 -0400 Received: (qmail 96316 invoked from network); 15 Sep 2003 12:20:14 -0000 Received: from dhcp-191-101.per.utexas.edu (HELO benefits3.mail.utexas.edu) (146.6.191.101) by wb2.mail.utexas.edu with SMTP; 15 Sep 2003 12:20:14 -0000 X-Original-Message-Id: <5.1.1.5.2.20030915070201.010faa60@localhost> X-Sender: msteitle@mail.utexas.edu@localhost X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Version 5.1.1 X-Original-Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 07:20:08 -0500 X-Original-To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" From: Mark Steitle Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: 20B In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="=====================_195422046==.ALT" --=====================_195422046==.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Wade, The 20B has a 2-piece eccentric shaft that must be split to disassemble the engine. You should remove the #1 rotor, rotor housing and front shaft, then #3, and finally #2. There is a threaded hole in the rotor journal of the front shaft that you can thread an all-thread into. I first tried a slide hammer approach, but that didn't work. A good friend loaned me his home made adapter. It consists of an all-thread, and a 1" thick plate with a hole that slips over the all-thread. The 1" plate should be about 4" wide and 8 - 10" long, but that's not critical, you just need the length for added leverage. Using the plate and a large nut, you position the 1" plate down onto the all-thread until it touches the end of the main shaft (extends through the smaller shaft out the front of the engine). It should touch the e-shaft about an inch or so from the all-thread. Screw the nut down to where it is touching the 1" plate, and then go about a half a turn extra. One or two blows with a medium sized hammer/mallet on the outer edge of the 1" plate will pop the small shaft off the main shaft. Suggest you use a piece of aluminum or brass between the 1" plate and the front of the e-shaft to prevent damaging the threads. I was amazed at how well this simple puller worked. Note: the e-shaft should be supported from the flywheel end when you smack the 1" puller plate with the hammer. Hope this helps, Mark Steitle 20B - First run of rebuilt engine 9/14/03 ! ! ! At 02:35 AM 9/15/2003 -0700, you wrote: >Guys, > >I'm in the process of pulling the housings off of my 20B. >I have Bruce Turrentine's video and I knew it would be a little different >from a 13B. >I got the rear side housing, rear rotor housing and rotor off, but I cant >seem to find the way to get the next side housing off. I tried the method >as shown in the video. I've lifted the shaft but the housing but it doesnt >want to move toward the eshaft so I can rotoate it off. >Anyone know the method for a 20B? >Thanks, >Wade Bush --=====================_195422046==.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Wade,
The 20B has a 2-piece eccentric shaft that must be split to disassemble the engine.  You should remove the #1 rotor, rotor housing and front shaft, then #3, and finally #2.  There is a threaded hole in the rotor journal of the front shaft that you can thread an all-thread into.  I first tried a slide hammer approach, but that didn't work.  A good friend loaned me his home made adapter.  It consists of an all-thread, and a 1" thick plate with a hole that slips over the all-thread.  The 1" plate should be about 4" wide and 8 - 10" long, but that's not critical, you just need the length for added leverage.   Using the plate and a large nut, you position the 1" plate down onto the all-thread until it touches the end of the main shaft (extends through the smaller shaft out the front of the engine).  It should touch the e-shaft about an inch or so from the all-thread.  Screw the nut down to where it is touching the 1" plate, and then go about a half a turn extra.  One or two blows with a medium sized hammer/mallet on the outer edge of the 1" plate will pop the small shaft off the main shaft.  Suggest you use a piece of aluminum or brass between the 1" plate and the front of the e-shaft to prevent damaging the threads.  I was amazed at how well this simple puller worked.

Note: the e-shaft should be supported from the flywheel end when you smack the 1" puller plate with the hammer.

Hope this helps,
Mark Steitle
20B - First run of rebuilt engine 9/14/03 ! ! ! 


  At 02:35 AM 9/15/2003 -0700, you wrote:
Guys,
 
I'm in the process of pulling the housings off of my 20B.
I have Bruce Turrentine's video and I knew it would be a little different from a 13B.
I got the rear side housing, rear rotor housing and rotor off, but I cant seem to find the  way to get the next side housing off. I tried the method as shown in the video. I've lifted the shaft but the housing but it doesnt want to move toward the eshaft so I can rotoate it off.
Anyone know the method for a 20B?
Thanks,
Wade Bush
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