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Message
Can
you remove the turbo for a noisy test run on the ground? see if you get more
static on the ground then with turbo.
Marko
Unless you're worried about
exhaust restriction from the turbo, I can just disconnect the hose
that runs from the turbo compressor to the intake pressure box. I've
thought about doing that, but don't figure it's too good for the
turbo, so I wouldn't want to do it for long. The other problem is
that I've proven that my static rpms are always in partial stall mode, so
the static number ends up being higher than what I see in
climb.
On a side note, some of
the "wallowing" that I complained about with the Tiny Tach was
probably the prop stalling and unstalling during high power runs since I was
pointing into about a 15 kt gusty wind. FWIW, the tach has been rock
solid since I shielded the pickup
wire.
I went to the airport to
stare at the engine today. I'm starting to line up my options for the
re-work. The whole thing hinges on whether I keep the turbo or
not. Either way, I have to come up with a custom intake, a smaller
alternator, and also hack off the thermostat housing to reduce the height (or go
back to plan A of an EWP).
If I scrap the turbo, then
my best course is to follow suit with everyone else, and install the evap cores
in the cheeks, with the oil cooler under the engine. I could use a stock
cowl from Van's and save myself a huge pile of fiberglass work. As
you can imagine, there are bonus points for any plan that saves fiberglass
work. The other upside to this is that the plane would be much lighter,
and would retain the normal aerodynamics of an RV-3, with the exception
of the muffler on the belly. It's certainly the most
conventional plan, but I've never been known for being conventional
:-)
If I keep the turbo, I'll start with a 4"
prop extension, and about a 16" spinner like Mike Wills did (why hasn't he been
bustin my chops recently? Goodness knows I've given him ample opportunity
<g>). This gives more room for proper shaping of the
cowl. I'll still have to keep the middle and rear of the cheeks to
house the turbo and throttle body, as well as using the rear as the air outlet,
but the front corners can be lopped off. On the bottom, I'll go with
a smaller radiator, and bring the front edge of it back about 10
inches. The whole radiator/oil cooler combo can be raised about 2" as
well. There will still have to be a scoop on the bottom, but it will
be night and day different from the current
monstrosity.
Lots to think about. One of my first
calls will be to Warp Drive tomorrow, and I'll report any HP figures that they
can come up with.
Cheers,
Rusty (recovering from the denial
stage)
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