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). This gives more = room for proper shaping of the cowl. I'll still have to keep the middle and rear of the cheeks to house the turbo and throttle body, as well as = using the rear as the air outlet, but the front corners can be lopped off. On = the bottom, I'll go with a smaller radiator, and bring the front edge of it = back about 10 inches. The whole radiator/oil cooler combo can be raised = about 2" as well. There will still have to be a scoop on the bottom, but it will = be night and day different from the current monstrosity. =20 =20 Lots to think about. One of my first calls will be to Warp Drive = tomorrow, and I'll report any HP figures that they can come up with. =20 =20 Cheers, Rusty (recovering from the denial stage) =20 =20 =20 =20 =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0048_01C37AF4.ECB0BB40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Message

Can=20 you remove the turbo for a noisy test run on the ground? see if you get = more=20 static on the ground then with turbo.

Marko

Unless you're = worried about=20 exhaust restriction from the turbo, I can just disconnect = the hose=20 that runs from the turbo compressor to the intake pressure = box. I've=20 thought about doing that, but don't figure it's too good for = the=20 turbo, so I wouldn't want to do it for long. The other = problem is=20 that I've proven that my static rpms are always in partial stall = mode, so=20 the static number ends up being higher than what I see in=20 climb.

On a side = note, some of=20 the "wallowing" that I complained about with the Tiny Tach was = probably the prop stalling and unstalling during high power runs since I = was=20 pointing into about a 15 kt gusty wind. FWIW, the tach has = been rock=20 solid since I shielded the pickup=20 wire.

I went to the = airport to=20 stare at the engine today. I'm starting to line up my options for = the=20 re-work. The whole thing hinges on whether I keep the turbo or=20 not. Either way, I have to come up with a custom intake, a = smaller=20 alternator, and also hack off the thermostat housing to reduce the = height (or go=20 back to plan A of an EWP). =

If I scrap the = turbo, then=20 my best course is to follow suit with everyone else, and install the = evap cores=20 in the cheeks, with the oil cooler under the engine. I could use a = stock=20 cowl from Van's and save myself a huge pile of fiberglass = work. As=20 you can imagine, there are bonus points for any plan that saves = fiberglass=20 work. The other upside to this is that the plane would be much = lighter,=20 and would retain the normal aerodynamics of an RV-3, with the exception=20 of the muffler on the belly. It's certainly the most=20 conventional plan, but I've never been known for being conventional = :-)

If I keep the turbo, I'll = start with a 4"=20 prop extension, and about a 16" spinner like Mike Wills did (why hasn't = he been=20 bustin my chops recently? Goodness knows I've given him ample = opportunity=20 <g>). This gives more room for proper shaping of the=20 cowl. I'll still have to keep the middle and rear of the = cheeks to=20 house the turbo and throttle body, as well as using the rear as the air = outlet,=20 but the front corners can be lopped off. On the bottom, I'll = go with=20 a smaller radiator, and bring the front edge of it back about 10=20 inches. The whole radiator/oil cooler combo can be raised about 2" = as=20 well. There will still have to be a scoop on the bottom, but = it will=20 be night and day different from the current=20 monstrosity.

Lots to think about. One = of my first=20 calls will be to Warp Drive tomorrow, and I'll report any HP figures = that they=20 can come up with.

Cheers,

Rusty (recovering from = the denial=20 stage)

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