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Ed & Dave's approach will work fine or use the hole drilled in the
spacer method that I use. Pulling the drive straight off is VERY
difficult. I think you could actually hoist the airplane straight up
from the prop flange with no bolts installed in the gear housing. Do be
sure and leave a few bolts with loose nuts to limit side travel when breaking
the seal.
To make this operation easier, Don't clean the mating surfaces before
putting the sealant on! I used to do that out of habit but found that it
was not necessary. Now I actually apply a thin coat of oil to the adapter
plate before installing the drive. This makes it much easier to
remove the drive later. I have never had a problem with oil leaks
even when using the oil.
Tracy
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2005 2:48
PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: RD-1C
Dissasembly Thoughts
Bill, I would hesitate to drill more holes in that area as it
is a sealing
area. There are several methods folks have come
up with.
1. Tracy suggested drilling a 1/4" dia hole in the
perimeter of the casing
about 1/2" from the mount plate (but NOT all the
way through into the oil
filled chamber). Then a pry bar can be
inserted between bolt/stud you place
in the hole and the mounting
plate.
2. I got a piece of angle iron, drilled two holes that
matched holes in the
prop flange and then got a 3/4" dia threaded rod and
a couple of nuts and
washers to fit. I got a short length of 1" dia
pipe with one of those
fittings on the end you use to mount it to a
concrete pad. The idea is I
insert the thread rod into one of the
nuts, place that end into a washer and
then into the 1" pipe. The end of
the 1" pipe is braced against the mounting
plate. I then
rotate the nut which causes the threaded rod to push on the
angle iron
attached to prop flange and the seal is broken. Sort of over
kill
when I saw what Dave did.
3. Dave Leonard had the simplest, he
got a suitable length of 2x4, placed
one end against the mounting plate
and simple took a caw hammer and using
the 2x4 as a place to rest the
fulcrum used the claw end to pry on the prop
flange - again putting
pulling/sideways load on the housing causing the seal
to
break.
You definitely want something to help break that
seal. I started to put a
threaded rod on each side to pull the
casing straight out (not wanting to
accidentally bend anything), but
Tracy felt that a side ways load to break
the seal would be less stress on
the gear box than my idea of pulling it
straight
off.
FWIF
Ed
.----- Original Message -----
From:
"Bill Dube" <BillDube@KillaCycle.com>
To:
"Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent:
Thursday, December 22, 2005 1:27 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] RD-1C Dissasembly
Thoughts
>
> I am about to install my RD-1C PSRU (as
soon as I can get the correct
> flex plate.)
>
>
I was reading the instructions and there were some warnings about the
>
difficulty of breaking the sealant between the drive and the mounting
>
plate. I know that at some point, I will need to disassemble the drive
>
and it will be difficult to separate the mounting plate from the drive
>
housing.
>
> What would be wrong with adding a few
tapped holes between the existing
> holes in the bolt circle of the
mounting plate? When is comes time to
> separate the plate, I would just
screw in a few bolts into these holes
> and tighten them in sequence.
This would push the drive housing away
> from the mounting plate in a
controlled manner. No hammers, pry bars,
> or bad language
required.
>
> Am I missing something, or is this a
good idea?
>
> Bill
Dube'
>
>
>
>
> --
> Bill Dube'
>
BillDube@KillaCycle.com
>
>
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