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Bill, I would hesitate to drill more holes in that area as it is a sealing area. There are several methods folks have come up with.
1. Tracy suggested drilling a 1/4" dia hole in the perimeter of the casing about 1/2" from the mount plate (but NOT all the way through into the oil filled chamber). Then a pry bar can be inserted between bolt/stud you place in the hole and the mounting plate.
2. I got a piece of angle iron, drilled two holes that matched holes in the prop flange and then got a 3/4" dia threaded rod and a couple of nuts and washers to fit. I got a short length of 1" dia pipe with one of those fittings on the end you use to mount it to a concrete pad. The idea is I insert the thread rod into one of the nuts, place that end into a washer and then into the 1" pipe. The end of the 1" pipe is braced against the mounting plate. I then rotate the nut which causes the threaded rod to push on the angle iron attached to prop flange and the seal is broken. Sort of over kill when I saw what Dave did.
3. Dave Leonard had the simplest, he got a suitable length of 2x4, placed one end against the mounting plate and simple took a caw hammer and using the 2x4 as a place to rest the fulcrum used the claw end to pry on the prop flange - again putting pulling/sideways load on the housing causing the seal to break.
You definitely want something to help break that seal. I started to put a threaded rod on each side to pull the casing straight out (not wanting to accidentally bend anything), but Tracy felt that a side ways load to break the seal would be less stress on the gear box than my idea of pulling it straight off.
FWIF
Ed
.----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Dube" <BillDube@KillaCycle.com>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2005 1:27 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] RD-1C Dissasembly Thoughts
I am about to install my RD-1C PSRU (as soon as I can get the correct
flex plate.)
I was reading the instructions and there were some warnings about the
difficulty of breaking the sealant between the drive and the mounting
plate. I know that at some point, I will need to disassemble the drive
and it will be difficult to separate the mounting plate from the drive
housing.
What would be wrong with adding a few tapped holes between the existing
holes in the bolt circle of the mounting plate? When is comes time to
separate the plate, I would just screw in a few bolts into these holes
and tighten them in sequence. This would push the drive housing away
from the mounting plate in a controlled manner. No hammers, pry bars,
or bad language required.
Am I missing something, or is this a good idea?
Bill Dube'
-- Bill Dube'
BillDube@KillaCycle.com
--
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