X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from [24.25.9.102] (HELO ms-smtp-03-eri0.southeast.rr.com) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.0.4) with ESMTP id 892804 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Thu, 22 Dec 2005 14:48:56 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=24.25.9.102; envelope-from=eanderson@carolina.rr.com Received: from edward2 (cpe-024-074-025-165.carolina.res.rr.com [24.74.25.165]) by ms-smtp-03-eri0.southeast.rr.com (8.12.10/8.12.7) with SMTP id jBMJlrfU009395 for ; Thu, 22 Dec 2005 14:47:53 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <000901c60730$9d6d52d0$2402a8c0@edward2> From: "Ed Anderson" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" References: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] RD-1C Dissasembly Thoughts Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 14:48:00 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.2180 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180 X-Virus-Scanned: Symantec AntiVirus Scan Engine Bill, I would hesitate to drill more holes in that area as it is a sealing area. There are several methods folks have come up with. 1. Tracy suggested drilling a 1/4" dia hole in the perimeter of the casing about 1/2" from the mount plate (but NOT all the way through into the oil filled chamber). Then a pry bar can be inserted between bolt/stud you place in the hole and the mounting plate. 2. I got a piece of angle iron, drilled two holes that matched holes in the prop flange and then got a 3/4" dia threaded rod and a couple of nuts and washers to fit. I got a short length of 1" dia pipe with one of those fittings on the end you use to mount it to a concrete pad. The idea is I insert the thread rod into one of the nuts, place that end into a washer and then into the 1" pipe. The end of the 1" pipe is braced against the mounting plate. I then rotate the nut which causes the threaded rod to push on the angle iron attached to prop flange and the seal is broken. Sort of over kill when I saw what Dave did. 3. Dave Leonard had the simplest, he got a suitable length of 2x4, placed one end against the mounting plate and simple took a caw hammer and using the 2x4 as a place to rest the fulcrum used the claw end to pry on the prop flange - again putting pulling/sideways load on the housing causing the seal to break. You definitely want something to help break that seal. I started to put a threaded rod on each side to pull the casing straight out (not wanting to accidentally bend anything), but Tracy felt that a side ways load to break the seal would be less stress on the gear box than my idea of pulling it straight off. FWIF Ed .----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Dube" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2005 1:27 PM Subject: [FlyRotary] RD-1C Dissasembly Thoughts > > I am about to install my RD-1C PSRU (as soon as I can get the correct > flex plate.) > > I was reading the instructions and there were some warnings about the > difficulty of breaking the sealant between the drive and the mounting > plate. I know that at some point, I will need to disassemble the drive > and it will be difficult to separate the mounting plate from the drive > housing. > > What would be wrong with adding a few tapped holes between the existing > holes in the bolt circle of the mounting plate? When is comes time to > separate the plate, I would just screw in a few bolts into these holes > and tighten them in sequence. This would push the drive housing away > from the mounting plate in a controlled manner. No hammers, pry bars, > or bad language required. > > Am I missing something, or is this a good idea? > > Bill Dube' > > > > > -- > Bill Dube' > BillDube@KillaCycle.com > > -- > Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ > Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/ >