Return-Path: Received: from imo-d06.mx.aol.com ([205.188.157.38] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.3c3) with ESMTP id 824594 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sat, 26 Mar 2005 23:35:00 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.157.38; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-d06.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v37_r5.33.) id q.1a3.304be144 (4262) for ; Sat, 26 Mar 2005 23:34:11 -0500 (EST) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: <1a3.304be144.2f7791c3@aol.com> Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2005 23:34:11 EST Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Oil Flow To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 138 In a message dated 3/26/2005 12:41:35 PM Central Standard Time, jwvoto@itlnet.net writes: << it spit out the oil put in there showing that the pump would work but still didn't suck, rather it does 'suck'. Should I have used Ultragray instead of the Halomar? Any suggestions? >> Cut two holes in a coffee can lid. One to fit tight around your "pressure out" line, and one for the Shop Vac hose. Fire up the Shop Vac and suck oil right through the pump. Let it run a couple of minutes and then spin the engine without the plugs or ignition and you should see good oil volume entering the can. When in doubt, prime the pump with hypoid through the pressure out line by turning the engine over backwards. That works well also. Whenever you build new, spin up oil flow with the pressure out line disconnected and hanging in and empty can. Otherwise, resistance in the oil system will just blow off the priming oil and get you nothing. If you have a remote filter mount, you can just leave the filter off until flow is established. Be sure to fill the filter before installing it. When you assemble, pack the pump with wheel bearing grease. It will prime instantly when started months later, like a spare race engine. Lynn E. Hanover