Return-Path: Received: from [65.33.160.181] (account marv@lancaironline.net) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro WebUser 4.3c2) with HTTP id 773628 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 07 Mar 2005 11:02:54 -0500 From: "Marvin Kaye" Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: extending cowling To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" X-Mailer: CommuniGate Pro WebUser Interface v.4.3c2 Date: Mon, 07 Mar 2005 11:02:54 -0500 Message-ID: In-Reply-To: References: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format="flowed" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit "Russell Duffy" <13brv3@bellsouth.net> wrote: """ >The best way that I know of to remove the oil is a de-greaser called >SlapShot from Walter. >A good substitute is brake clean which is available at any auto parts store >for a couple of bucks a can. """ If you're trying to prep for bonding and have used and continue using epoxy for the layups then the best degreaser is methylene chloride. It flahses off almost immediately and does not affect the composite in any way, other than leaving it perfectly dust and contaminate free. It also works on polyesters but you can't use it with the towels as wet during application... it is pretty aggressive (the basis for most paint removers). When I'm prepping for a layup I typically wipe the surface down with MC prior to sanding to eliminate surface oils, then sand, then a final quick secondary MC wipe with a clean paper towel to remove the dust and anything that might have gotten onto the surface from my hands or the sanding tools. At that point the surface is the most active it can be and it's ready for additional layups. Follow this procedure and you'll never have a delam to deal with. FWIW.